"Unprepared and Unplanned" bicycle trip from San Francisco to Florida

Its over.....for now!

2008-12-09T09:00:00.001-08:00

Here is the finale to the USA bike ride:

Day 51 Jacksonville, Florida (WARNING: Lots of Writing)

2008-11-25T08:20:00.000-08:00

I slept like a log and disappointingly missed Helen’s youngest daughter go to school. I had some more coffee and tried to ignore the nightmare journey ahead of me today. I absolutely hate flying, so much so I would rather wax my genital area. Because of stupid Virgin Atlantic, I have to fly from Jacksonville to Nashville, then to Chicago, changed plans and fly back to San Francisco. I then spend the night back at my starting destination and fly direct to London the following day. The only plus side is that I get to see my lovely hosts in San Fran again.

I loaded up my luggage and we headed into town to have some lunch with Barry, George and Margo. We went via the elementary school so I could say goodbye to Helens daughter. After a super lunch I thanked them all for being such wonderful hosts and being so kind.

The journey to the airport only took a few minutes and there was no queue at the check in desk. I had to pay 50 bucks for my bicycle and ordered to take it to the end of the counter. I said goodbye to my bike as if it was a child. That baby has travelled a long way and I didn’t want it damaged or lost by some numb nuts at the airport.

I had only 90 mins to wait before my flight left so I started my diary. Soon enough I was on the plane and being given some nuts and soda. The take off was smooth but the approach was bumpy due to the horrible weather in Nashville. The flight to Chicago and San Fran was uneventfully. When I picked up my bike box at San Fran I had noticed Customs had cut open the box and resealed it. I just hope they replaced everything and didn’t break anything in the process. The box was looking even more battered than before.

I was met by Jan and whisked back to her place. I arrived later than expected so we only chatted briefly before I retired to bed.

Having hours on the plane to contemplate things I have decided it does actually feel quite strange. I guess I should write something inspiring and thoughtful about my journey but as some of you have probably realised my writing style is worse than a secondary school kid. My illiteracy and shocking ability to express myself will no doubt result in a slur of words. Nevertheless, I shall dedicate the next few paragraphs to thoughts, feelings and anythingness!

So the journey started off completely different to how it ended. I intended it to be an adventure but after hitting the plains and desert of nothingness the trip turned into a challenge of me versus me. This may seem strange and hard to understand but I didn’t feel I missed anything by the change in attitudes. After the Grand Canyon there was nothing on my route that was pulling me in. Of course there are things to see but I was never prepared to complete a humungous detour to see something. Also, the trip was very weather dependant and I was almost forced to head the direction I went.

The feelings I experienced when approaching the finish were very different to any other rides I have completed. For example, when Alison and I got to our goal in Istanbul we both felt very numb and emotionless. There was no feeling of extreme joy or satisfaction. We concluded it was to do with the joy and rewards was the actual journey itself as opposed to getting to the finish. Whereas, this time the journey was not the reward, it was the finishing. As I approached that beach with my fan club cheering, my blood was boiling with excitement. I felt so satisfied with the way I had dealt with scenarios I had been faced with. At times my emotions had been so low but I dug deep and found strength from somewhere to keep me going.

So I left the coast of the Pacific and soon found myself with in the mountainous region known as the Yosemite nation park. The path then lead me to the baroness of Death Valley. Further on, the terrain turned into desert as I passed through Nevada and Arizona. Eventually, I hit the flat planes of Texas where I could see for miles around. Then there was the swamp and marsh lands of Louisiana and Mississippi. Finally, I followed the Gulf Coast but briefly headed inland until I arrived at the Atlantic Ocean.

I have so many people to thank for making my coast to coast journey so memorable. I am amazed at peoples generosity and willingness to help. I have been given accommodation, food, advice and even money to complete my trip. I am in no doubt that I have made some great friends through this trip and may even inspired some people to get out there and live their dream.

Day 50 Jacksonville, Florida

2008-11-23T19:02:00.000-08:00

I could not work out if it was a dream or whether it was really over?!? The thought of not having to put my saddle sore butt back on the saddle made me feel on top of the world. Although I guess a small part of me was sad to it was over.

For breakfast, I had coffee and munched on some home made chocolate brownies. Shortly after, I began the dismantling of my bike whilst Helen and Barry reinforce my damaged bicycle box. An hour or so later the bike was in the box and sealed with about 2 rolls of duck tape.

Helen had arranged for us to pop over into Georgia and visit a family hunting lodge to have some lunch and relax for the afternoon. Keen on seeing more of the country, I was definitely up for it. It was only an hour drive away and we were there in no time. The house was located on the river bed surrounded by 18,000 acres. Cypress trees removed from the nearby swamp were used to build the house and it was designed exactly how one would think I hunting would be. It had the maids quarters, the balconies, the creaky staircase and the stuffed trophy heads all around the mansion.

I was introduced to Helen’s sister, her husband and their children. We sat around a fire and drank beer and ate more food. The weather was glorious and it was suggest I went with the younger boys on a speed boat trip along the river to the swamp area. We took one of the dogs and cruised along the peaceful canal for a few miles. Unfortunately we did not spot any alligators or poaches, nevertheless it was great fun.

When we returned the youngest boy Sam took me for a ride around the property in their truck. He is only 15 years old and passionate about hunting. Loose on the front seat were two rifles, a shotgun and I believe there was a 9mm handgun in the glove compartment. I have to admit it felt a little strange but I guess I am not accustomed to that lifestyle. He was talking about his hunting stories which were actually quite interesting. I picked his brain on a few issues but his head was pretty well screwed on for such a young boy.

With the evening drawing to a close we decided to head back home before the mozzies came out in force. I managed to take a few nice photos of the sun over the river leaving only the silhouette of the trees for detail.

We got home relatively late and after a few phone calls we had dinner. Feeling pretty tired I went to bed thinking how lucky I was to be staying with such a cool family. They have bent over backwards to help me and I will be eternally grateful for all their help.

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Day 49 Jacksonville, Florida

2008-11-22T19:46:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 27 Ride Time 3hr 05min
Avg speed 13.08 mph Total mileage 3093

I woke up buzzing but knew I had some stuff I had to sort out before I could get on the bike and finish the trip. I started the day with a lovely cooked breakfast and coffee. We discussed where the local bike shops are and headed off in search of a bike box. On route we popped into Helen’s friends house as they wanted to meet me and here about my experiences. They told me they had been following the blog and have been fascinated about the ride. It still feels odd that random strangers have been following the ride.

Eventually, we found a beaten up 5ft box that needs some serious patch work but at least the bike will fit. The weather was cold and blustery and I was contemplating leaving the ride until tomorrow as it was approaching 1330hrs. We got back to the house and Helen prepared me a gorgeous burger and I decided I would finish it today.

I loaded up my bike for the final time and we arranged to meet each other at the beach in 3 hours time. I cycled out the drive way and had to stop almost instantly. My emotions were already buzzing and I had to get a grip as I had 30 miles still to go, which were on very busy roads and would require a lot of concentration. It was a struggle but eventually I pulled myself together and found a quite road for the first 10 miles. After passing through the city all I had to do was head due East on Beach Bld for about 12 miles.

That road was busy but I had a few positive cheers from people I had met early and people who were going to be at the finishing line. Every time I received a horn beep I would smile and it would drive me on even faster. The wind was very strong in places but there was no way I would let that get to me.

With the final bridge in sight I could smell the ocean. I climbed up the steep slope and once on the top I caught my first glimpse of the dark Atlantic Ocean. At the last set of traffic lights I saw a few people huddled in the chilly wind on the edge of the beach. I was pumped and so incredibly happy that the end was only a stones throw away. As I got even closer, a hoard of kids with banners were all cheering me on and greeted me with huge, smiles and an applause.

I felt so relieved that I had made it in one piece and celebrated with cold alcoholic beverage. I looked at the ocean and it looked cold and was very choppy. With all the cameras at the ready, I ran into the sea and dived under. Unfortunately, I dived way to soon and scrapped my chest on the bottom of the sea bed. I ran back ashore and got changed out of my soaked clothes before I caught hypothermia!

I had actually cycled the last part much quicker than planned and other friends of my host began to arrive a little later. Nevertheless, it was so nice to have a big welcoming committee. We headed to Helen and Barry’s sons house and had some more snacks and beer. My smile did not leave my face as the moment started to sink in that I would not have to get on that saddle anymore.
Later in the evening, we decided to go to a Irish pub for dinner along with Barry’s brother and wife. The dinner was great and we chatted some more. After dinner we took a stroll along the beach and I could not help but look across the Atlantic ocean and think that will be next.

Day 48 Jacksonville, Florida

2008-11-21T18:18:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 65 Ride Time 4hr 46min
Avg speed 13.64 mph Total mileage 3065

I woke up several times during the night thinking about it all being over very soon. I got up at 0800hrs, had a shower and drank some coffee. With Barry still asleep, I left the house and said goodbye to all the dogs. The glorious tail wind had gone and the usual cross/headwind had returned with anger. Determined not to let that get to me I kept focused on the few miles remaining.

After 20 miles I stopped at a gas station which turned out to be a hunters gathering place. With pictures of dead dear and proud hunters all around the walls I felt a little uncomfortable. I rushed down my fries and chicken and got back on the bike. Within minutes I received an aggressive horn beep from a logging truck for not pulling off the road so it can fly past me. He obviously found it too much to slow down instead he just wanted to bull doze along the road. Thoroughly hacked off at his ignorance, I rode with aggressive until I eventually calmed down and relaxed.

I got very excited when I passed into the city limits of Jacksonville and realised that the end was in sight. Like any city, the traffic congestion started building and there were traffic lights on every block. I knew it was only a matter of time before I received another beep from an obnoxious driver. Sure enough I got the beep and then the hand gesture indicting me to get on the sidewalk. Fortunately we were approaching lights so I got the chance to shout abuse through the window.

It was such a shame because I was on a high of being so close to the finish but as soon as I received that beep my emotions turned to anger. There really was no need and if he had opened his eyes there was even a sign indicting the road is shared with bicycles. Plus, I could be ticketed for cycling on the sidewalk.

I found my couchsurfing.com host house and was greeted by Helen and Barry. There house gorgeous and they live in a lovely location. We went for a short walk down to the river and discussed the logistics for tomorrow. The plan is to find a bike box in the morning and then I will finish the ride to the Atlantic coast in the afternoon.

Day 47 Lake City, Florida

2008-11-20T18:10:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 70 Ride Time 4hr 42min
Avg speed 14.84 mph Total mileage 3000

It was colder in my hotel room than my tent the previous night. If only I found the air conditioning button before I went to bed it could have been a different story! Still feeling stuffed from my massive pizza, I struggled at breakfast. My breakfast buffet effort is not even worth talking about.

I got on the road and instantly felt the wind behind me. The difference was incredible and I sliced up the road with my speed. My spirits never dipped and I felt on cloud nine all day. With the sun shining bright, I revealed my bare torso to the world and got some rays whilst on the saddle. The roads were quiet and I loved every second of it.

I was thinking about where the desire to do these things came from and I have decided to blame it all on the movie ‘Goonies’. I remember watching that film and thinking I want to experience an adventure like that and hear I am doing exactly that. Except instead of finding treasure, the reward will be completing the journey.

I arrived at Barry’s house, my warmshowers.org host, and introduced to his three energetic dogs. I jumped in the shower and weighed myself for the first time in months. I have lost 36lbs/16kg in total. Some of that weight was lost on the Istanbul bike ride but the majority has been during this trip.

We spent the evening chatting and relaxing. It should be another relatively short day tomorrow so I might enjoy a short lay in.

Day 46 Perry, Florida

2008-11-19T17:24:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 68 Ride Time 5hr 05min
Avg speed 13.43 mph Total mileage 2930

I crawled out of my sleeping bag and was slapped in the face by the cold air in tent. The outer tent was soaked in condensation so I slipped out without touching the sides. As I stood up a family of dear where munching on the grass only 10 metres away. I relit the fire and wrapped up warm. I threw the outer layer over a washing line so it could drip dry. I returned about 10 minutes and was amazed that the water droplets had turned into ice!

I set of wearing pretty much everything I had. Fortunately the sun was shining brightly and once out the shadow it was glorious. I was starving and thirsty so I stopped after only 4 miles and had a hot coffee and bun. I sat out of the wind and enjoyed the sun rays beat on my face whilst devouring my food.

The road was quiet and pretty and the first few hours the miles flew by. I think it really hit me that I only have a few days cycling left and that brought a huge sense of satisfaction over me. I had overcome so much during my journey and been pushed to my limits.
The lack of food was beginning to make me feel weak and as if by magic a Subway appeared from nowhere. I had the usual foot long with cookies and soda. I could have eaten it all but decided to save half and eat it later on.
I made a decision to have an easy day so plodded on and paid no attention too my slow speed. I passed over a small river and stopped at a picnic table beside the canal. I found a spot out of the wind and sun soaked for 30 minutes. It was lovely and peaceful.

I arrived at Perry and searched for the motel strip. After some negotiations I checked into a room and ordered the biggest take away pizza on the menu. I spent the evening chatting to friends over the internet and watching a NBA game on TV.

Day 45 Ochlochonee River state Park, Florida

2008-11-19T07:09:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 76 Ride Time 6hr 02min
Avg speed 12.65 mph Total mileage 2860

I was horribly disturbed by my alarm this morning and once I turned it off my head was still ringing. I assumed that was to do with the six pack of beer I drank. I packed up and rushed down the road for a coffee and Subway breakfast roll. It tasted so good!

The wind was strong and cold and I had to cycle with my jumper on. Hoping the wind would pass I tried not to think about it and simply plod on. My nose was leaking like a tap and it 2 hours of riding until I removed my warm clothes. I had a stretch of 30 miles without any supplies and as if by magic a Burger King appeared right before me. Thoroughly stuffed and reenergised I slowly fought the wind until my mind gave up. My average speed may be a bit deceptive because its still relatively average. But what you must bare in mind is how much harder I am having to work to get it that high. My legs are constantly going and powering with each revolution.

I have arranged to stay with someone at Lake City on Thursday and before the day began I thought there may be a chance I could get there on Wednesday if I produce another 100 mile day. That goal soon faded but I decided to push on as much as I could and then have two smaller days. I stopped at a RV park who refused to let me stay and suggested a State Park some 15 miles away.

Eventually I got to the gate entrance and was told it was a further 2 miles of the road but was relieved when they said they would allow me to stay. I was giving a very harsh warning about how cold it is expected to get tonight but I shrugged it off and told her “I’m English don’t you know!”.
I erected my wet tent from this morning and had a very long soak in the shower. I chose the disabled shower so I could sit down, relax and allow my body to warm up. I did an extensive stretching routine and it wasnt until after that I realised I was making groaning sounds from the painful positions I was putting myself through but from an outsider they could have easily been mistaken for something else!
I almost skipped out of the shower block, warm, clean and loose. I returned to my pitch via all the other caravans in the hope to scrounge some food as I had nothing to eat. Nobody was around although I did see some dear hop across the campsite which was kind of cool. I purchased some wood and chilled around the camp fire planning my route for tomorrow. I boiled some water for the fun of it despite not having anything to put in it!

Day 44 Mexico Beach, Florida

2008-11-17T17:11:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 106 Ride time 7hr 22min
Avg speed 14.42mph total mileage 2,783

I am currently a happy man. I am sitting in my tent slurping down some beer and scoffing some chocolate thinking how I managed to get through today. Physically I feel strong but mentally I am finished but yet I still find something to keep me going. Minutes can sometimes fly by as if they were seconds and at other times they pass slower than hours.

Anyway, I ate everything possible for breakfast and took 5 more muffins for the road. For the first 90 mins I felt terrible and wanted to puke up the food. Eventually my stomach settled and I got into a rhythm. I followed the coast all day and never got sick of seeing the ocean. The water has now turned into an ocean that I would want to take a dip in. Previous to this the water has been murky and dark.

I stopped for lunch at Subway and have become accustomed to their footlong sandwich with cookies and soda. So much so, this is my third one on the trot and I do not intend in stopping that run tomorrow! I reached Panama City and was tempted to call it a day as I had done 80miles but the sun was still high so I decided to push on. The proceeding 26 miles went on and on and on.

I promised myself I would not stay in a hotel tonight so I stopped at the first RV park I saw. They refused to take tents and recommended another site 2 miles away. I followed his directions and ignored the motels on route. I got to the campsite and had a good giggle with the owner. He pointed out my pitch and said he would be going to the gas station for beer later should I want some. Hell yeah, I said.

I went for a little wonder around the campsite and noticed this sign only 60 metres from my tent. I spoke to a fellow camper who states there is a 12 ft alligator along the canal somewhere. My beer arrived and I decided to forget about being eaten alive and turned my thoughts on my next travels.

Day 43 Navarre, Florida

2008-11-16T16:17:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 84 Ride Time 6hr 19min
Avg speed 13.35 mph Total mileage 2677

I woke up early and eager to get on with the day. The night was not as cold as everyone had said but the early morning wind was making the air chilly. I packed up and got to the port 30 mins before departure. Eventually somebody showed up and confirmed the crossing would go ahead. Thoroughly relieved I jumped aboard and went straight to the front of the boat. I hid from the wind and relaxed. I later found out that the ferry seized operations a few hours later.

By 0900hrs I was on the road and at some point today I knew I would cross into Florida. I stopped after 20 miles and had a Subway breakfast. The wind was relentless and cold and the miles weren’t totting up. I had to put on a long sleeved top and wind proof for the first time in the trip.

The ride followed the coast all day but that still wasn’t enough to lift my spirits. I seem to struggle mentally if I havent covered a certain amount of miles by midday and because of the slow start I felt I was playing catch up. Eventually I pulled myself together and wondered why I go through these mood swings.

With the sun coming down I decided to call it a day when I reached Navarre. I was informed there was a RV Park in town but then I saw a Best Western and it attracted me like a magnet. I haggled down the price to something still extortionate and watched the sun set outside my room. I cant wait until the breakfast buffet tomorrow as I have only eaten a subway sandwich, a honey bun and 3 Hersheys bar.

I continued with my Best Western bedroom gymnastics, which was inspired by the movie Bloodsport. Jean Claude Van Dame eat your heart out!

Day 42 Dauphin Island, Alabama

2008-11-15T15:26:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 71 Ride Time 5hr 05min
Avg speed 13.83 mph Total mileage 2592

I woke up a little later than intended but was still on the road before 0800hrs. I said goodbye to Linda and thanked her for having a brilliant day yesterday. The wind was strong as predicted but was easing me along for a change. I was conscience the day off had put me behind and I found myself doing all sorts of mathematics to work out what was required to reach my goal.

The riding slowed as my direction turned into the wind. It was time to listen to some music and let my mind drift away from the fact I was so close to finishing. I crossed into my penultimate state, Alabama, which is always moral booster. I have thoroughly enjoyed my time, albeit brief, in Mississippi. Later on in the day I had to take a ferry across from Dauphin Island to the Bay on the other side, some 2 miles away. By taking this route I avoided a major city and the chaos involved in cycling through it.

As I got closer I thought I would start enquiring with locals whether the ferry was running. Once again I was given all sorts of answers and decided to get a number to call and find out the truth. If it was closed I had to fight a 15-20mph head wind for about 30 miles. This option really didn’t appeal to me as it meant pain for a long time and then having to cycle through the town.
I finally got through and was told the news I didn’t want to hear. The ferry had seized operation at 1100am, some two hours ago, due to the high winds. I was adamant I was not going to cycle into the head wind and decided to head towards the ferry and camp opposite the port and hope it will be running in the morning. This is a really big gamble as I have been told the weather is meant to be freezing tonight and windy tomorrow.

I got to the campsite and was charged a horrendous 22 bucks (15 pound). The ferry was indeed closed but the first one leaves at 0800hrs tomorrow morning. I set up my tent and went for a walk to the Gulf beach. It was beautiful. The sand was shining white and the sea was calm. The wind was kept out by the forest of trees just off the shore line. I stayed out there and watched the sunset over the ocean. I returned to my luxury tent and watched some movies.
I still managed my 70 miles as required but that will be irrelevant should the ferry not be running tomorrow. I hope I haven’t made the wrong decision.

Day 41 Biloxi, Mississippi

2008-11-14T14:52:00.000-08:00

At 0715hrs I was picked up with my bike and we headed to D’Iberville elementary school. I was a little nervous as I had nothing prepared and wasn’t sure how to handle screaming kids. I was introduced to, Kim, Linda’s sister and escorted to the library. A class of about 15 kids came in and I began chatting about the trip. I had questions being thrown at me left right and centre and their innocence could not stop me from smiling. We finished the talk with a class photo and was given a gift from one of the children. Thank you very much to all the staff at the school for your generosity.

I was then picked up by the sports coach of Biloxi high school and introduced to the principle. I was asked to go to a mixture of classes and give a 20 minute talk to each. I happily obliged and had some fun. In general, the kids response was positive and appeared genuinely interested. Mind you, most of them were more intrigue to simply hear an English accent. However, even if it inspired them in the slightest way I was satisfied with my efforts. The most amazing question I was asked today is whether I had had to kill lizards and snakes and eat them. Much to their disappoint, I hadn’t.

I was given a tour around the high school and was amazed by their sporting facilities. They had an athletics track, softball arena, baseball arena, football field, gymnasium and a basketball stadium. I also got a ride in a police car which brought back memories of my job. Although our police cars are beaten up Astra’s but they drive Dodge vehicles!!

After lunch we headed back to Biloxi with the intention to hit the road for the afternoon. However, last night my crank was starting to make strange noises so I decided to take the afternoon off and seek a bike doctor to give it a quick once over. It was a risky decision as I have to make Jacksonville by Friday 21st. The evening was spent chilling as I plan to be on the road very early tomorrow.

I want to thanks everyone today for all your generosity and support. These experiences is exactly what I wanted from this trip and if I can open up peoples desire and ambition to achieve their goals, then my job is done.

Day 40 Biloxi, Mississippi

2008-11-14T04:59:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 88 Ride Time 6hr43min Avg speed 13.01 mph Total mileage 2520

The day had finally arrived when I had to put on my clean pair of cycling shorts and hit the road once more. I woke up early and said my farewells to Kayla as she had to go to school. I then showered and made the most of all the homely things around the house as I was not sure where the night would take me. I decided to wait until the morning rush hour had passed so I packed up slowly and chatted with Duffy. The time came and I had to go. I said goodbye to Duffy and the dog and thanked him for their great hospitality.

The route out of town was no where near as crazy as the way in and infact the worst part was the rubbing from my cycling shorts. They felt so uncomfortable but then I realised I had put them on back to front! A swift stop at the rest rooms sorted that out.

Within about 15 miles I was away from the traffic and gliding along a road that was slicing up the marsh land. The sky was blue and the only sounds I could hear were the birds tweeting. I took my first stop after 3 hours at a little place called Pearlington. I sat in a chair and watched the world pass by. Just as I was about to leave a lady called Linda passed by and ask me what I was doing. One thing led to another and she wanted me to get on television and visit some schools in the morning. I spoke to the TV studio over the phone and they showed great interest and said they would liaise with Linda. Linda is an energetic lady who can pull lots of strings and has contacts pouring out of her diary.

Linda suggested I make it to Biloxi where she will arrange some accommodation for me and some dinner at a casino. The route kissed the Gulf Ocean and it was a real pleasure to cycle beside. With the sun setting, I met Linda who took me to John’s house. I jumped into the shower and we headed to the Imperial Palace Casino for a complimentary buffet dinner. We met another friend of Linda’s and I apologised in advanced for the amount of food I was about to consume.

I rated my buffet effort as a So-So Silver. 3 full plates of main course, a seafood gumbo and for dessert one bowl consisting of a cookie, 3 brownies all covered by a chocolate fountain sauce.

We returned to the house and discussed the logistics of the school and TV visits for tomorrow.

Day 39 New Orleans, Louisiana

2008-11-13T05:45:00.000-08:00

Today is the day before tomorrow and tomorrow is the day I get back on the road. With this in mind I decided to do as little as possible and relax. I sent several couch surfing/hospitality/warmshower requests for the last leg of my journey and planned my route out of the city.

I have 9 days to get to Jacksonville, which leaves me 2 days spare before boarding my plane. I have calculated the daily mileage at approx 70 miles. The route will be following the gulf coast for at least 4 days so I am hoping to be able to camp on the beach.

My body aches have gone and the last time I checked the rashes have cleared. Physically I am ready to go but mentally I am done. I had focused so hard on getting to my friends house, it felt as though the trip was over. I am sure once I am back on the road my focus will return. The flights I have purchased can not be changed so I am hoping I do not have any more break downs. Fingers crossed people!

Day 38 New Orleans, Louisiana

2008-11-12T07:19:00.000-08:00

The plan today was to go on the legendary Annie Miller swamp and marsh tour. However, this was in the afternoon so Duffy and I had to waste the morning playing the Wii and Xbox. After an intense session we agreed on another truths and headed out to Houma to begin the tour. After a brief Taco Bell stop, we arrived at start and before stepping in the steel boat we saw a large alligator basking on a wooden platform. Within in minutes were saw more baby alligators, several species of bird and loads of cute turtles. The canals turned into marsh and then swamp. The cypress trees were covered in Spanish moss giving them an eerie appeal. The 2 hour tour was surprisingly enjoyable and well worth doing.

In the evening we went to a local Italian restaurant as Tuesday is 2 dollar pitcher day. Several pitches and a 14inch pizza later I was sufficiently stuffed and we retired back to the house. After being whipped by Kayla at bowling on the Wii I went to bed in a bad mood! I am sure my controller was damaged!

Day 37 New Orleans, Louisiana

2008-11-11T07:35:00.000-08:00

Today was all about cleaning my bike and sorting out my airfare home. After spending hours on the phone to Virgin Atlantic they told me they would not change my ticket and I have to fly all the way back across to San Francisco and then fly home to London. This actually works out as the cheapest option but it means having to get a internal flight from Jacksonville to San Francisco, which will be a real pain in the ass and very time consuming.

So the date has been set and I have12 days to cycle from New Orleans to Jacksonville, some 600 miles. For all my fans, you can greet me at the airport on the 26th November at 1100am Heathrow airport Terminal 3.

When Duffy and Kayla got home we went into town for a traditional dining experience. I ate everything including the food on Kayla’s plate! Afterwards we meandered through the groovy French quarter and soaked up the flavour aswell as some interesting cocktails. Several beers and cocktails later we decided to head home so Kayla could get on with her studying and Duffy and I could blast the hell out of each other on the Xbox. As usual, time flies when the box is in full flight and after only two victories on my behalf we called it truths just after midnight.

As some of you may not be aware, I am raising money for Cancer Research and should you want to donate please click on the link below. Incase some of you are confused, I am still using the justgiving website I set up for the Road to Istanbul trip.

Day 36 New Orleans, Louisiana

2008-11-10T06:47:00.000-08:00

We all had a fantastic lay in and eventually had some fresh muffins for breakfast. Duffy took on the role as a tour guide and drove Kayla and I around New Orleans so I could witness the devastation caused from hurricane Katrina in 2005. It was rather shocking to think the floods were over 3 years ago and, yet in places, houses were still in the same state the day they got destroyed. The water lines were still visible along with the marks left by the national guard indicting the house had been searched. There were also holes in the roof where people had to be evacuate by helicopter.

The eeriest part of the tour was seeing the only remains of the property being a concrete porch. The house had simply disappeared leaving a concrete pillar. In some parts people had made the difficult to decision to move back to their house and start again but have had a boost by companies offer unique energy saving houses.

We returned home where Duffy had changed his role from a tour guide to a chef. Whilst he prepared a unique dinner I got rid of all my hair. I felt normal again.

Day 35 New Orleans, Louisiana

2008-11-09T08:09:00.000-08:00

The aim was to wake up early as Duffy and Kayla had got tickets for me to see a college American Football. It was quite a an important game due to the standings but even more so because the opponents coach, Alabama, used to coach the home team, LSU. Despite taking LSU to a major victory, he left on bad terms and this was his first return to the LSU stadium.

With Duffy spending most of the night with his head in the toilet he was feeling quite unwell and tired. For once, his condition was not alcohol related but I felt a little hung over as I drunk more alcohol than water yesterday whilst having cycled a record 124 miles. We had a massive palaver trying to get Duff some medicine but got it in the end.

We arrived at the game, along with the other 93,000 people and the place was pumping. Its hard to describe as the place was simply electric. I am not even talking about inside the stadium. They have these feasts called tailgates were people bring there RV, truck, car and have a selection of food and beer in front of their vehicle. As well as that they have music blasting and people are cheering and dancing. Some even erect satellite dishes so they could watch the pre match build up. It was fabulous to witness.

The aim at these games is to get pretty tanked up on alcohol prior to going in and if you are extra sneaky, try and smuggling in small bottle of spirits. Instead, I drank the majority of my Jack Daniels and Mr Bean prior to going in but it was fun watching everyone hide theirs. The atmosphere was so friendly, even between rival fans.

We walked up the stadium stairs and then out onto our seats. The stadium itself was packed to the rafters and was awesome. The game got on the way after the band and cheerleaders did their thing. Considering this is only college ball I could not believe the support and money that was being used in such an event.

I ate everything American I could, which included, hot dogs, soda, popcorn and peanuts. LSU were expected to get thrashed but kept it level all game. Alabama had a chance of clinching victory with the very last kick of the game but were unbelievably denied by an incredible block from LSU. The game went into overtime and Alabama snatched the win. They are presently the number one team in the country but did not look that good after today’s performance. However, with the noise the fans were making that must have been a hard stadium for any away team to play in.

During the drive home I was beginning to feel very fluey and my bones were aching. My nose was leaking and I feared I was getting the dreaded man flu. We got home just in time to watch the Cazaghe Vs Jones fight I so desperately wanted to see. After another brilliant display from the Welshman I retired to bed buzzing from a fabulous day.

If any of you need to contact me directly please email me at krisbearryman@yahoo.co.uk. i can not reply to any comments left on this blog.

Day 34 New Orleans, Louisiana

2008-11-09T08:08:00.000-08:00

View Larger Map
Stats
Daily mileage 124 (New record) Ride Time 8hr 23min
Avg speed 14.75 mph Total mileage 2433

If I was wearing a hat I would take it off, if I could reach I would pat myself on the back and if I was sitting down I would stand up in a display of appreciation as to how well I rode today. When I woke up this morning I tried to roll out the left side of the bed but it hurt my body. I then tried to roll out the right side but it still hurt. I ended up shuffling down the end of the bed like a caterpillar and gradually stood up. My entire body was sore from yesterdays effort but I had another big day planned.

I went across the road to a diner and ordered my breakfast at about 0530hrs. At about 0610hrs it finally arrived on my table so I scoffed it down as the sun was coming up and I wanted to be on the road. I checked out and was on the road and noticed the wind had changed and was now a cross wind which would be very helpful when had to turn SE. I spent the first 90 mins burping up little chunks of breakfast. I ate so much and far too fast as well. My stomach finally settled and when I reached the Mississippi river I decided not to cross it at that point as I would have had to navigate my way through Baton Rouge during rush hour which would have been very time consuming.

As soon as I turned SE the wind knocked my speed upto 20mph and life was great. The miles clicked by and I had completed 100 miles by 1300hrs. I inadvertently turned onto the road that meant I had to cross the Mississippi river but it was not as bad as I thought. Despite having no hard shoulder the cars and trucks were, for once forgiving, and gave me plenty of space.
As I approached New Orleans the traffic was beginning to get congested and dangerous. After receiving endless hand signals and horn beeps I got to a junction that split into the motorway. This was really one place I did not want to be. I got on the road that I thought was the best option and got off at the next available place. I then started cycling through some very interesting neighbourhoods. Last night I watched the classic film Boyz in da Hood, and could swear the film had been filmed in this location.

I stopped and asked for some direction and eventually recovered my bearings and located my friends house. Mentally and physically drained I sat on the doorstep and relaxed. That was some of the most stressful riding I had experienced since I left San Francisco. My hosts were not supposed to be home yet but I thought I would knock on the door anyway. To my surprise, Kayla had got home early and gave me a lovely welcome. Her husband, Duffy, returned from walking the dog and we had a beer together.

We all went out to a cool bar where they served greasy food and a huge variety of beers. Feeling quite overwhelmed and tired we only stayed for a few hours. We returned to their house where I experienced the power of the Wii machine. It was great fun and I was so happy to be here and the thought of not getting on the bike tomorrow kept a smile on my face all evening.

Day 33 Livonia, Louisiana

2008-11-07T08:57:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 123 (New record) Ride Time 8hr 42min
Avg speed 14.18 mph Total mileage 2309

At 0400hrs some idiot started kicking at my tent telling me to get up and get lost. I politely told him to get lost as I had the owners permission to camp where I was. I tossed and turned for a further 40 mins and decided to get up. The gas station was already serving breakfast so I had a couple of bacon, egg and sausage baps whilst waiting for the sun to rise. I got on the road at the earliest opportunity and knew I had to put in a lot of miles today.

I had my first sprinkle of rain since I started the trip but it did not last long. The first 40 miles flew by and I had done 70 miles by 1230hrs. As I left Eunice I bumped into another tourer called Bob. He has been on the road for 70 days and is also heading towards Florida. It is always interesting to share stories but I was so focused on pushing on I didn’t speak to him for long.
With over 8 hours on the saddle I was aching everywhere. My knees were screaming for me to stop but I had to push on. I was on the road when the sun came up and I was about to see the sun set whilst still being on the road. A scenario I don’t want to repeat too much.

I passed a few possible wild camp spots but wanted to reach Livonia and check into a hotel. I felt disgusting and dirty and really needed a shower. After a brief discussion with the hotel receptionist it was clear she was not going to rent me a room. I asked to speak to the manager and after giving her the spiel, she offered me the disable room.

I jumped straight into the shower and watched the brown water fill up the tub. Afterwards I browsed the internet and discovered my friends house is still 110 miles away. Another hard day is required tomorrow but I cant wait to get there and have 5 days off!

Total spent: 86 bucks

Day 32 Singer, Louisiana

2008-11-07T08:52:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 93 Ride Time 7hr 11min
Avg speed 12.90 mph Total mileage 2185

A friend once told me he hated two things in life; Flies and Work. I naturally agreed but after today I have decided to add to that list. I don’t like headwinds. Its been so tough at times I don’t know where I have found the desire to keep going. I would scream and shout and almost fall into tears from the frustration. I really want to reach my friends in New Orleans by Friday, but to do that I will have to produce two massive days.

I had a good nights sleep and woke prior to my alarm at 0600hrs. I packed up and made use of the bushes for the toilet. I broke the record today by being on the road by 0640hrs but stopped shortly after as I hadn’t eaten the night before and was hank marvin. I found out by some locals that Obama had won the election and according to them he will be the next Sadam Hussain! I didn’t really care who won but I wanted the Obama to win because he was black and I was interested how America would react to that. I haven’t heard any direct racism but you can tell in the undertone of some of their voices.

I had the munchies all day and couldn’t stop eating. I was definitely working harder than I thought and needed the calorie intake. Eventually I crossed into Louisiana and I was glad to see the back of Texas. Crossing that state line was a major reality check of how far I had come. There was no officially sign so I took a picture of this one.

The day wore on and I was getting slower and slower. I arrived in a quaint village called Singer and stopped for some desperately needed food. I had been weak and shaking for the previous 6 miles. I spoke to owner who offered me a spot to camp behind the shop. Once again I found myself in a dilemma as there was about 90 mins of day light left. The other problem is that there is a lot of dear hunting going on at the moment and I didn’t fancy wild camping and being woken to the sound of a bullet shooting through my tent. I decided to stay and relax and hope the wind is kind to me tomorrow allowing me to catch up on those miles.

Whilst I was chilling outside the store I got speaking to these two high school girls, called Morgan and Chelsie, who insisted they are classic country hicks and wanted to take me to church tonight. I declined their kind offer and we chatted some more. They seemed happy simply to have spoken to an Englishman.

I watched the sun drop and the mozzies disappear into the night. Before I forget, I was wondering if anyone, or knows anyone, has spare £15,000 they can donate to me so I can enter into the Woodvale Record breaking attempt of rowing the Indian Ocean on 19th April 2009. If anyone has an suggestions email me at krisbearryman@yahoo.co.uk. I am serious about this but have no idea where I could generate that sort of money.
Total Spent: 26 bucks

Day 31 South of Lufkin, Texas

2008-11-05T12:20:00.001-08:00

Stats Daily mileage 93 Ride time 7hr 10min Avg speed 12.88mph Total mileage 2093

What a battle that was today. Incase the wind was not enough to stop me, the earth decided to throw rolling hills at me all day. Anyway, back to this mornings breakfast. I woke up hungry and was waiting at for the dining room door to open so I could jump in. I made a school boy error and scoffed my food too quickly and was full in about 20 mins. I rated my buffet breakfast challenge as a shameful bronze and the only reason I got a medal was because I put at least 4 muffins, 7 mini donuts and an assortments of other cakes in my pockets as I left.

I got on the road before 0800am and promised myself I would not stay in a hotel tonight. The bike felt great and I accepted the slow speed I was going. The road meandered through lovely rolling countryside enclosed by an assortment of coloured trees. Eventually, I got to Lovers Lookout, a rest point I wanted to reach last night. In hind sight I should have just gone for it as there were great facilities there and the view was magical. I spoke to the wardens who offered me more donuts and coffee.

The day consisted of going up, down and then up again. I would occasionally have a swearing fit at the wind and could not help think what it would be like if the wind was patting me on the back. The condition of the road was terrible and was not making it easy riding. I passed massive smoking Barbeque in the shape of a pistol that I thought was pretty cool.

I stopped only a few times and once I got on the 69 south of Lufkin I had had enough.. The traffic was insanely busy as people were finishing work and the road was very bumpy. I stopped at an RV park beside the road and it looked very run down, possibly even closed. With no one insight I just pitched my tent and hid in it from all the mozzies. A local approached me and confirmed the park has closed down and reckons the police might not be happy to find me here. I told him I was leaving at the crack of dawn and would deal with them if they show up.

Its only 1800hrs and its been dark already for about 40 mins. I reckon I am going to be tucked up in bed by 1900hrs but I am aiming to be on the road before 0700am. However, that has been the goal on several other occasions! Lets have a vote…..Will I or wont I? Total spent: 3 bucks This video is my impressive of the wolf man, be warned its scary.

Day 30 Tyler, Texas

2008-11-03T18:10:00.000-08:00

Stats
Daily mileage 57 Ride time 4hr 38min
Avg speed 12.28mph Total mileage 2000!

Thank you Angela from the Alba Hardware store and Lee and David from the Elite Bicyles shop. Yep, you guessed it, another broken spoke in the middle of nowhere but I am now currently sitting in my luxury room on the outskirts of Tyler after having a miserable day. I packed up and was on the road at 0705hrs. Pleased with my early start, I thought I would make a quick stop for breakfast and get back on the asphalt. The wind was hitting me head on so I got down onto the drop handle bars to minimise the drag.

57 miles down highway 69 and I heard that dreaded sound, “Ping”. I looked down and my wheel was wobbling around like a local a pre-teen on a drunken Friday night. I decided to just carry on and not look down as there was a town called Alba 4 miles down the road. I wasn’t expecting a bicycle shop there but I was hoping something would evolve from visit. I headed to the general store and spoke to the owners Angela and Dean. They confirmed the closest bike shop was 40 miles away in Tyler but Dean believed he knew someone could fix it. He gave the man a ring and I spoke to him. I explained the predicament I was in and that a special tool was required but he reckoned he could remove it with some pliers. At that point, I realised he was not the man for the job so I thank him for his offer and decided to get to the bike shop somehow.

Angela and I banged our heads together and called the Greyhound (National Express coach equivalent). They laughed down the phone and said “No”, implying you are in the middle of nowhere. Angela then suggested calling a council representative and offering him 50 bucks to drive me to Tyler. I reluctantly agreed as I had no choice but I really didn’t want to pay that much. To prevent me from making the same mistake as last time I called the bike shop and spoke to a lovely lady called Lee. She confirmed the shop was open and they can help.

Angela introduced me to Wade, the council rep, and we said our goodbyes. I was very grateful for her help. The 40 miles took about 45 mins to drive and I could not help think that would have taken me 4 hours to cycle with the current wind situation. I walked into the bike shop and was greeted with a lovely smile and the stress lifted of my shoulders. I explained the problem to the Boss, David, and he did his thing on the wheel. He gave the rest of the bike a brief going over and offered me lots of advice. His staff were very interested in my trip and asked me lots of questions.

By the time we had finished talking I had about 90 mins of sunlight left. David only charged me 20 bucks and Lee gave me some dosh for a burger. I thanked my new friends and decided to head for the rest area some 25 miles away. I got about 2 miles away and thought “Sod it”. The wind had made it a physically tiring day and with the broken spoke my moral was exhausted.
The first hotel I came across was a Best Western so I thought I would enquire about the room rates. The lady said, “Well, as I am a sucker for accents I can offer ….”. I stopped her in her tracks and laid on the sob story of my eventful day and what I am currently doing. She offered me 70 bucks for the night and I accepted. I received a business suit with sofas and everything! Of course breakfast is included and all my regular readers know how I will tackle that!

I spent the evening catching up on emails, researching how I am going to fly home and tending to my rashes. I came within a cats whisper of making the most dangerous mistake of my life. I put some tiger balm on my ankles and then I placed some rash cream on my bits. If it was an action movie you could imagine my fingers moving down to my bits in super slow motion. Everybody would be shouting….“no, change hands!!”. At the very last minute I remember I still had tiger balm on my fingers and I was about to cover my balls with it. I have done some stupid things in my life but that would have topped the list. There needs to be some sort of government advice on those Tiger Balm pots, I suggest: WARNING: KEEP AWAY FROM CHILDREN AND TESTICALS!

Total spent: 150 bucks ouch!

2008-11-03T08:22:00.000-08:00

Day 29 Princeton, Texas
Stats
Daily mileage 81 Ride time 5hr 34min
Avg speed 14.53mph Total mileage 1943

My bed felt so sweet last night. I even got up during the night and slept in the other double bed next to it just because I could! The clocks went back an hour last night which meant an extra hours sleep. I limbered up in preparation for buffet breakfast. The plan was, as usual, empty the contents of my stomach and then take breakfast at a slow pace. I started with a fry up, then another one and then I hit the cereal and bagels. This was in between me gulping down countless glasses of juice and coffee. Forty five minutes later I decided I had had enough but I took 2 bananas, 2 apples, 2 muffins and 1 yogurt back to the room for later.

On the way out I thanked the receptionist for burning a hole in my wallet and helped myself to the complimentary chocolates. I took a massive handful containing all sorts of goodies. I got on the bike and felt strong initially. The lack of wind made me feel good but the traffic has really picked up. I am no longer on those isolated roads, instead they are fast flowing dual carriageways.

Prior to leaving the hotel, I google mapped my friends house in New Orleans and realised it was nearly 600 miles away. That meant I had to do 100 miles a day to reach them by Friday. As soon as the wind picked up my speed plummeted and so did my moral. I looked around for inspiration but there was nothing to pick me up out of this mood. The traffic, the road condition and the scenery were all horrible. To top it off, I could not get comfortable on the saddle and was in agony. It was no good I had to stop. I stopped at the next place I could get a drink that happened to be Walmart. I bought a massive drink and sandwich and relaxed a little.

Realising that I would not be able to complete 100 miles today, I decided to look for somewhere to camp. Eventually, I came across this spot that made the ending to my day perfect. I picked a spot just of the road and beside a lake. I hate having to do extra mileage when looking for accommodation so this was a bargain. It means that in the morning I will be knocking off the miles as soon as my tyres hit the asphalt.

The location was beautiful. The sun was going to be setting and I found a small place to have a fire. The clouds have drifted it, which means I am going to experience different weather in the morning, but gave an even better back drop for the sunset. I sat there with my cameras in hand snapping happily away at the sky. It really cheered me up and I have some fantastic shots as a result.

With the sun gone and the moon shining brightly, I lit my fire and gazed at the flames dancing over the wood. I started thinking about the remaining part of the trip and decided I have to head south soon. I have been avoiding it for days purely because the wind has been blowing a southerly gale making it impossible. But tomorrow is the day that I will have to bite the bullet and hit the wind head on!
The picture of me grimacing is a re-enactment of my face when I was sitting on the saddle. I know it’s a bit late, but I hope y’all realise that I also put video clips on the blog. They usually look a little different from the photos and have a triangular symbol, indicating Play just beneath the image. Look at yesterdays and today’s blog for example. Total spent: 5 bucks

Day 28 Bridgeport, Texas

2008-11-01T18:04:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 93 Ride Time 6hr 42min
Avg speed 13.88 mph Total mileage 1862

I woke up to the smell of omelette and fresh coffee. I jumped in the shower and then enjoyed my breakfast whilst Andrew went to fetch Juno’s friend, Jon Q. Yesterday, Jon Q and I spoke for some time regarding my travels and he wanted to see me off this morning. Farewells were exchanged and I hit the road. Last night was a wonderful experience and I hope I made as much of an impact on their lives as they did on mine.

The road devil was out in full force this morning. Every mile felt a struggle and the thought of sitting on the saddle for 7 hours was messing with my head. Eventually, my mind drifted about a few challenges I want to complete when I get home and the road devil burnt away.

The scenery has changed dramatically today. The road has become undulating and covered but an array of multicoloured trees. I saw my first armadillo today, albeit dead. Infact, I have seen a lot of road kill today including a dear, raccoon, cat, skunks and an eagle.

I have made some calculations regarding visiting my friends in Baton Rouge, Louisiana, and they are approximately 600 miles away. I am aiming to get there by 7th November. This requires me to cycle approx 85 miles a day. As if by fate, I passed that marker and I saw a Best Western Hotel shine on the horizon. I was annoyed with myself for even considering it as I was doing so well on the 100 buck challenge. I thought to myself there was no harm in finding out the price. The hotel receptionist were very welcoming but quoted 160 bucks. I told her what I was doing and after some negotiations she dropped it down to 85 bucks. It was still way out of my price range but there was free chocolate, cookies, cereal, coffee, orange juice and a fitness suit plus hot breakfast. I decided to treat myself and ate everything insight. Every cookie and coffee eaten was making the price of the room cheaper and cheaper.

I got changed and went to the gym to lift some weights. The room was covered in mirrors and I noticed I have lost a lot of weight. My upper body tired very quickly and I fear I will be aching a lot in the morning. I went back to my room and had a lovely soak in the tub.

The rest of the evening was spent chilling and watching TV. My 100 buck challenge is over but in 4 days I only spent 41 bucks, or approx 24 pound.

I want to thank everyone for their comments on the blog, text and email. I don’t always have the opportunity to reply to them but believe me when I say they are a real moral booster. Keep them coming please!

Day 27 Throckmorton, Texas

2008-11-01T16:27:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 88.83 Ride time 5hr 51min
Avg speed 15.16mph Total mileage 1769

I reluctantly got out of bed and felt the cold on my aching bones. I was concerned at sticking out like a sore thumb in the park and did not want to get in trouble. I packed up in record time and was on the road by 0717am. I checked the bag of goodies that the teacher gave me before throwing it away and to my surprise, she had put 50 bucks in there. It’s a shame I could not have thanked her in person for her generosity.

I had to wait 24 miles before I could have any breakfast and it felt like forever. Eventually I arrived at the town and went straight for a large burger, fries and coke. It tasted delicious. My calorie intake for the last few days have been minimal. It pretty stupid on my behalf but I am curious to see how far I can go on little quantities of food. I guess I am trying to work out my miles per the gallon ratio! During the 90 miles I covered today I only consumed 1 pear, 1 chocolate brownie, 1 herseys bar,1 burger, fries and coke. To be honest I didn’t feel that week either.

As I approached the town of Throckmorton , I spoke to man on the side of the road and enquired about food and water. It was another 40 miles before I reached Graham so I had to be prepared. Also, that would have made a total of 130 miles today and I was gunning for a new record. He was very polite and intrigued about the trip. He offered me a place to stay here in town and I made the tough call to stay the night. It was difficult as I had been aiming for that allusive 130 mile marker all day and I was on track of reaching it. But I reminded myself this is exactly what I wanted from this trip.

We went to his house and the first thing I did was have a hot shower and it felt amazing. I did a quick laundry whilst Andrew, my host, returned to work and I introduced myself to his adopted foreign exchange son called Juno. Juno is from Korea and is on a cultural programme to experience life in rural Texas. Once Andrew returned from work we went and fed his horse and goats and then put some massive steaks on the barbeque.
Andrew suggested we go and watch the local schools American football match featuring the Greyhounds versus the Wild Cats. It was such an awesome experience from the band to the cheerleaders. I had been desperate to watch a football game whilst I was here and I thoroughly enjoyed it.

We returned back to his house and I spoke to Andrew for a bit before retiring to bed. All in all, a very enjoyable day.

Day 26 Jayton, Kent, Texas

2008-10-30T19:47:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 111 Ride time 7hr 11min
Avg speed 15.41mph Total mileage 1680

Today I cycled and then cycled some more. The scenery was slightly rolling giving my legs a brief break. Nothing that exciting happened today until I got to a little town called Post. I went to the chamber of commerce, spoke to the ladies and jumped on a WiFi spot. Whilst I was there the judge of the town popped in and the two ladies introduced me to him. As I reached for his outstretched hand I distinctive smell appeared to leak from my armpit. I was rather embarrassed and swiftly pulled back my arm to shut off the smell. I guess those baby wipe showers just arent doing the trick.

I had to buy some cream for this ever changing rash down below. It was red yesterday but has now turned a little dark, perhaps even greenish!!

I got back on the road with about 30 or 50 miles left for the day. I was going to get to a rest area and decided what to do when I got there. My speed was good and I reached the spot in no time. I got off the bike and decided I would call it a day. Within about 15 mins I changed my mind and decided to head to Jayton. It was a gamble as this was a perfect place to camp. The next 20 miles also flew by and I nearly passed the town without realising.

It was deserted but I sore the doors flicker at the local library. The lights were off but the door was open. I stumbled upon a local school teacher and her students decorating the main hall for a big Halloween party tomorrow night. I introduced myself and asked if I could be of any assistance and in return advise me where I could camp for the night. I spent a couple of hours with them and the room was starting to take shape. It was a cool way to spend the evening and was nice to have some company. The teacher invited me to the school tomorrow but I have a big mileage day planned.

I followed her to the suggested camping spot but she started taking me off road. I learnt yesterday about the dangers that lurk off road and those pesty little pricks where back with vengeance. I removed at least 10 from my tyres and we decided to change the destination and moved to park next to a lake. I am praying I did not pick up a puncture from the excursion.
I set up the tent in the dark and relaxed for the night.
Total spent 9 bucks

Day 25 Brownfield, Texas

2008-10-30T11:04:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 96 Ride time 6hr 16min
Avg speed 15.28 mph Total mileage 1569

Today was my 12th consecutive day on the saddle. Granted, I have had a few easy days mixed in but I have covered just shy of 1000 miles. With the nights drawing in early I find myself asleep equally as early. As a result I am waking up during the night feel quite restless. It didn’t help with all the loud lorry whizzing past. At about 5am, I woke to the sound of coyotes. They were close and appeared to be calling to one another. I remember hearing a story in Africa where the hyenas screech to each other alerting them that there is food around. I was praying I was not the food. After all, I looked like a giant grub in my sleeping bag. I was afraid enough to sleep the next hour with my pen knife.

I crawled out of my tent a little later than I planned and had a baby wipe shower. My speed was good right from the off and I hoped it would continue throughout the day. With no breakfast, I planned to stop at Tatum some 30 miles away. It took less than 2 hours to arrive and I was ready to eat a horse. I went straight to the cooked section of the gas station and bought two breakfast fajitas. They were delicious and one was enough so I saved the other for lunch. The next place along route 380 was another 30 miles away so I judged the water accordingly.

I left New Mexico for the last time and entered Texas, the birthplace of Mr George W Bush. I stopped for some compulsory photos and inadvertently learnt a very careful lesson. On the side of the road there are thousands of goat heads. No, not real ones dummy! They are small spikes that are more than capable of puncturing tyres. I will take a picture of these little pricks tomorrow!

Before setting off I removed 3 of them from my tyres and aimed for my destination, Brownfield. I rocked up pretty earlier and had a good 3 hours of sunlight left. Unsure with what to do I popped into the chamber of commerce and enquired about camp grounds etc. One thing lead to another and she suggested I go to the free dinner they dish out to homeless people. Initially I thought against it but then I had nothing to loose and was quite intrigued about the ordeal. She also believed somebody might be able to put me up for the night.

I trotted around town and found the place. I knocked on the door and the lady told me that was yesterday and there was no food left. I was enquiring about everything from showers to somewhere I could crash. But she was not having any of it. I decided to head to the camp ground on the outskirts of town. It was perfect. They had water, electricity and best of all it was free. I have not seen any toilets but there are some big trees behind me.

With no dinner in my pannier bags I had to rely on my massive bag of M&Ms. Total spent today: 13 bucks

Day 24 Middle of nowhere, New Mexico

2008-10-30T10:55:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 43.6 Ride time 3hr 34min
Avg speed 12.17 mph Total mileage 1473

I decided that I would take today at a very pleasurable pace and enjoy it as much as I could. I had a lay in and went for my continental breakfast. I also decided I would challenge myself to see how long I could make 100 dollars last. That was my excuse to eat and drink as much as possible at breakfast. I got talking to a local about aliens and UFOs and was gob smacked at how much of a believer he is. It was amusing at first but then he wouldn’t stop talking and after about 20 minutes I had to get out of there. I tried standing up but that didn’t phase him so I had to say something to shut him up and leave. “I have such terrible trots this morning, I must dash to the toilet”, I said. It worked so well!
I packed up the bike and headed towards the UFO museum. It had to be done despite being so tacky. It was so cheesy but fascinating reading about the military cover up of the Roswell landing in 1947.

I spoke to some locals and confirmed my route of out town and they stated there is no where to get water for the next 80 miles. With this in mind I took an extra bottle and decided I would camp at a rest stop some 40 miles away. I figured, other cars would also stop there so I can ask them for water.

The road was straight and went on forever. I climbed over a hill and at the top I swear you could actually see the curvature of the earth. My mind was elsewhere all day and it wasn’t until I stopped I felt the pain in my ankle was back. I raised my seat this morning so I lowered it again. Hopefully that will ease the pressure tomorrow.

I got to the rest stop very early so I sat in the sunshine and read my book. As I hoped, there were plenty of people stopping so I was able to keep my water supply topped up. I left it to the last minute to erect my tent and then I sat there, eating my spaghetti watching a beautiful sunset.

I am camping about 20m from the road in a rest area which is not the safest place to be. I fear it will be a very restless nights sleep. Totally spent today: 9 bucks

Day 24 Roswell, New Mexico

2008-10-27T19:59:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 46.7 Ride time 3hr 18min
Avg speed 14.09 mph Total mileage 1429

I am writing this entry in a happy mood, but I have experienced every emotion today. I woke up this morning not knowing where the day would take me but I had my fingers crossed. I spoke to a different receptionist who confirmed the bike doc had definitely closed down, so I decided to cycle into town and speak to the chamber of commerce. I passed Walmart and decided I had nothing to loose by asking the bike department within the store. However, I was informed it was the mechanics day off. Typical.

I eased into town and noticed some bicycles in a car tyre shop. A bloke called Jimmy overheard me telling one of the mechanics I had broke a spoke. After a brief conversation, he suggested taking my bike to an old guy a few blocks away who builds and sells second hand bikes in his yard! We drove to this mans house and I knocked on the door. Unfortunately, he said he didn’t have the tool I needed and told me the closest bike shop was in Roswell, some 80 miles away. With no rail or coach link I was in trouble.

Jimmy chipped in and said he was actually going in that direction but only to Artesia, some 40 miles short of Roswell. I accepted his offer but made a quick phone call and checked the bike shop existed. I was not about to make the same mistake again! Jimmy was a fantastic bloke and had lived in Carlsbad his entire life and currently works on the oil fields. We shared some stories and before we knew it we were there. I took my stuff of the truck and said goodbye.

I loaded my bike up and noticed I left a bungee strap in the truck and that my front tyre had gone flat again. Thoroughly cheesed off, I had no choice but to get to the bike shop as quick as I could. I pumped up the tyre and hit the road. I felt myself constantly looking at the rear wheel buckling on every revolution and the flat front tyre.

After two and half hours I finally got to my destination and started looking for the bike shop. I asked a local who stated I had to go left and it was about 7 blocks away. I turned left as instructed and asked the next person I saw for more direction. I have learnt that you have to ask at least 3 people and take an average on what they say and I am so glad I did. The second man told me it was literally around the corner, not 7 blocks away!

I collapsed into the bike shop and the relief just lifted of my shoulders. I sat in the chair and watched Steve get to work on my bike. With all my problems sorted I popped into the tourist information for some advice. The ladies there were incredibly helpful with one of them giving me 5 bucks for the adventure. I then check into another cheap motel. I couldn’t pass through Roswell and not visit the UFO museum so I decided I would visit it in the morning.

Today has been an emotional day but I feel as though things are looking up and am ready to get this show back on the road. Before I forget, I must mention about this strange rash I am getting down below. Watch this space!

Day 23 Carlsbad, New Mexico

2008-10-26T21:02:00.000-07:00

Stats

Daily mileage 84 Ride time 6hr 51min Avg speed 12.27 mph Total mileage 1383

It was a very early start and it felt good. I thanked my lovely host and slowly plodded into, through and out of El Paso. The bike felt good but my ankle was still a little sore.

I eventually got on the open road and passed a border control checkpoint. I topped up with water as this would be the last place I could for about 50 miles. The wind was relentless and I had to stop and have a break. I managed to take a photo of one of the hundreds of crickets/locust on the side of the road. Depsite trying my hardest, I have squashed so many and they make a really loud crunch sound when you ride over them!

As I got back on the bike, I noticed the front tyre was flat again. I was really cheesed off as I changed it only two days ago. I decided there must be a problem with the rim and upon inspection I think I found a slight lump under the rim tape. I decided I must get to a bike shop and have a professional look at it. I was informed there was bike shop in Carlsbad, some 150 miles away.

Once over a small mountain pass, the land transformed into a vast flat plain. There was no escape from the wind so I put my head down and watched the miles trickle down. I was truly in the middle of nowhere with no mobile reception. Thoroughly tired and 84 miles down, my mobile kicked into life. As I reached for my phone I heard a very distinct snap from my rear wheel. I looked down and noticed the wheel was no longer running smoothly. It had a rhythmic pulsing motion which meant one thing, a broken spoke. I got off my bike and didn’t know what to do. I have spare spokes but I needed a cassette removal tool. It was getting late and I had very little water left.

I really didn’t know what to do. I thought about texting my hosts from last night to come and pick me up but I lost reception. Besides, I really didn’t want to ask them to do that. I sat there for about 10 mins trying to decide what to do. I car happened to pull up about 100m away so I walked over to them not really knowing what I was going to say. I guess I was hoping the driver was a bike mechanic! He said he couldn’t help me so I made a decision to get on the bike and cycle 20 miles to a 2 house town called Salt Flat.

Within about 5 mins the same car stopped in front of me and asked if I wanted a lift to Carlsbad, some 100 miles away. He stated there was a bike shop there. I reluctantly accepted his offer and was annoyed with myself that I would miss this section of the road. I wanted to say I cycled all the way across but now I have missed a 100 mile section. On the other hand I could have done serious damage to the bike, wheel and tyre if I continued.

I checked into a motel on the out skirts of Carlsbad and spoke to the receptionist about bike shops in town. He stated with great conviction that the shops have closed done and there were no longer there. I went to the room feeling down and thought about my options. I will make some phone calls in the morning but if I cant find a bike shop, I will have to either hitch another ride to Roswell or cycle 80 miles to Hobbs.

I logged onto the internet and found some you tube videos of how to fix spokes and had a go. I removed the tyre, rim tape and spoke. I then got to the point where I realised I didn’t have the tool to proceed. I replaced to parts and made a hash of it. I sat on the bed thoroughly annoyed and dejected.

I had been really looking forward to the ride from El Paso to Carlsbad because I was planning on visiting the famous caverns. At sunset the thousands of bats cyclone out of the cave which is supposed to be very impressive. Now, I am 20 miles passed the caverns and if I cant get the bike fixed tomorrow I will have to miss out on them. Not good..aaaggggghhhhhhh!

Day 22 el Paso

2008-10-25T17:30:00.000-07:00

The route so far...

Stats
Daily mileage 40.67 Ride time 2hr 42min
Avg speed 15 mph Total mileage 1298

I spoke to my http://www.warmshower.org/ host last night and the plan was to set off at similar times in the morning and would meet along route 28. I decided to go to the diner and had a lovely breakfast consisting of pancakes and bacon. Whilst sitting there, I realised that Texas was an hour different to the clock I had been working by. I was already slightly late in leaving and this meant my hosts had left along time ago. I have not been paying attention to the physical time in the last 3 weeks, I have been using the sun as my guide.

I got on the bike pronto and cycled like the wind. Within in about 10 miles, I bumped into my host and they escorted me back to their home town, El Paso. It was great to have some company and the miles ticked past quicker than even before. As we were cycling down the road I noticed another tourer, named Scott, ahead with his camera out posing to take a photo of me. He even shouted “keep going kris”. My hosts informed me that they stopped him earlier thinking I was him. We all joined together and cycled into town and had lunch together. Scott is also a copper from Phoenix and had been on the road for 7 days but due to his work commitment was finishing today.

We ate at a Mexican joint and said our goodbyes to Scott. My hosts showed me into their house and told me to make myself at home. I spent the afternoon chilling and resting my sore ankle. In the evening I watched a film I had been dying to watch for sometime. It was called “Into the Wild”. I could see some serious similarities between me and the main character.

For a long time now, I have been wanting to write about my desire to do these things and were I get this free spirit attitude from. I am not sure this public blog is the best way to express some of these deep thoughts because sometimes I forget who is reading this. Documenting my beliefs in such a way has been a great way of looking inside myself and deciding what is important at the present time. On the other hand I guess some or my blog readers simply wont give a shit. But I am finding it intriguing to understand why I have to do these things.

I guess it comes down to having just one life and I plan to grasp every opportunity I can. Sure, that means I have to make compromises but without taking a chance and experiencing something new, I cant grow as a person. This world is a beautiful place but how can I see that when I have to go to work Monday to Friday and then spending the weekend hung over. I have had to make sacrifices to do this trip. For example, a university friend has just got married last week and I was unable to attend it. Understandably, he was upset when I told him I could not go and I was too, but I am not simply going on a one week holiday to Ibiza. I am fulfilling a dream of mine and although it was a though decision, I am positive it was the right one. Sure, I know some folks wont see it that way and they are of course they are entitled to their opinion but I guess I am different. Is it selfish, maybe!?!

I know people wonder how I can afford to do all these things but it comes down to priorities. I am happy without having all the latest fashion, owning the fastest car and having the biggest house. Instead, I save that money and spend it on living my dream. I feel most alive when I am out in the middle of nowhere as opposed the rat race of the London life. Will this attitude last forever, probably not. Maybe, happiness is real when shared!

I feel as though I could go on for a lot longer and perhaps I will another day but for now I shall say goodnight. Goodnight.
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Day 21 Las Cruces

2008-10-24T17:16:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 122 Ride time 7hr 33min
Avg speed 16.05mph Total mileage 1258

Breakfast was served at McDonalds nice and early so I checked out my room at the first sign of light and relaxed with my coffee and egg McMuffin. There was not a cloud in the sky but the air was extremely cold. I approached the interstate and, to my joy, saw no sign prohibiting bicycles.

The road was quiet and the wind was belting in my ear tell me this was going to be a good day. I looked around and admired the flags, trees and bushes being blown in the direction I was heading. The road condition was good and I soon crossed the continental divide. This felt quite a milestone for me. The continental divide is the point in the states that when on the East side, all the Rivers run towards the Pacific Coast and when on the West side, the water runs towards the Atlantic Ocean.

I saw my first Rattle Snake but fortunately it had been flattened by a vehicle! About 10 miles after that I noticed a vehicle had pulled over into the hard shoulder. I initially thought it was the police and I was mentally preparing a cock and bull story about not knowing the cycling laws. Instead, it was this family who said to me “Are you that guy cycling across the states”. I replied “yes, how did you know”. They had heard it over the radio but obviously got me mixed up with someone else. In an amazing moment of generosity, they gave me 40 bucks. I thanked them profusely and was so grateful.

The original plan was to exit the freeway after 25 miles but that meant going perpendicular to the wind. I decided to stick on the freeway for another 31 miles as the riding was so much fun. The miles ticked by like the second hand on a watch. I reached Deming and had another McDonalds but this time it was big burger and fries. I made a decision to continue along the freeway but for the next 35 miles I had the opportunity to cycle on a quiet road beside it.
I devoured the burger and returned to my bike. I noticed the front wheel was looking flat. I really could not be arsed to change a tyre so I went to a gas station and put some more air in it. It was only a slow puncture after all.

I hadn’t been paying attention to my speedo but I had already done 100 miles and the motels were still another 20 miles away. I felt tired all of a sudden and wanted to call it a day. Eventually, I reached my destination and checked into the first motel I saw. It was only 30 bucks so I took it. I changed my tyre and spent the evening watching TV.

Day 20 Lordsburg, New Mexico

2008-10-24T07:11:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 73 Ride time 6hr 15min
Avg speed 11.73mph Total mileage 1136

I am sitting in a stink hole of a room writing this blog. For 20 bucks I am not expecting the Hilton but I was hoping for a bed. But then again, even if it did have one I still wouldn’t use it as I would be too afraid of being eaten alive by fleas. Instead, I have opened my roll matt and sleeping bag and will crash on the floor. The luxury of living on the road.

With my ankle still very sore, I stopped after 11 miles and lowered the saddle. I thought that reducing the toe extension might elevate the strain and I also altered my foot position so the pedal was underneath the arch instead of the toes. This definitely helped but it was very inefficient and was putting more strain on my knees.

The terrain was flat and you could see all around you for miles and miles. It was a great feeling not being able to see any civilisation and barely have any traffic on the road. The cacti have been replaced with small bushes and on all the horizons are large mountain ranges. I loved it.

I did come across some agro drivers today though. I have been cycling on the road instead of the hard shoulder mainly because the hard shoulder is littered with rubble, thorns, bolts, glass and holes. This appear to anger motorist and who began beeping their horn at me and that really really pissed me off. My middle finger would shoot up in lightening fashion and a yell along the lines of “you f*****g p***k what is your f*****g problem you a**hole” would come screaming out my mouth. They never heard but it made me feel ten times better. I usually got a arm movement back indicating to me that there is a hard shoulder. I would then frantically wave back at them to pull over so we could discuss this like true gentlemen. If there were oncoming cars then I do pull into the hard shoulder but when the road is completely empty they can suck my balls!

I arrived at my destination about 1600hrs and I didn’t expect it to be so run down. There is a distinct Mexican feel to this neighbourhood and after speaking to the motel owner she warned me to be careful on the border road I am planning to take. It is clear to see that immigration and border control is on high alert as there are vehicles patrolling everywhere. The motel owner said expect to see tanks by the side of the road tomorrow. I cant work out whether she is serious or not. We shall find out.

I went to the supermarket and bought some goodies and scouted my route out of town. I have to go on the motorway for about 25 miles and according to the owner bicycles are forbidden from riding on the interstate. I have no other choice but to brave it and take the consequences.
I apologise for the lack of photos again and I promise to try harder tomorrow. Sorry.

Day 19 Safford, Arizona

2008-10-23T07:25:00.001-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 87 Ride time 6hr 15min
Avg speed 13.89mph Total mileage 1063

I woke up this morning hoping my ankle enjoyed the early finish yesterday as much as I did. I went for breakfast but didn’t feel like stuffing my face. I ate responsibly and returned to my room and to have another shower. In case you are all wondering, my improved hygiene regime has eradicated those nasty little boils in my private region.

Today was a bizarre one. My Achilles had not improved and the pain was spreading around the ankle. I decided to take it real easy but I was still flying along. Mentally I was somewhere else all day. I thought about everything from Christmas presents to what adventure I want to do next. The main thought was regarding my career. I am pretty sure I do not want to go back to the police but it annoys me that I had to wait several years to get in and then discover its not for me. The question is, what do I do? Send your answers on a postcard!

I travelled nearly 90 miles but can hardly recall anything. I have noticed they are harvesting a lot of cotton in this region. However, this was due to a machine was cutting the plant and parts of the cotton were floating in the air and getting stuck in my beard!

I got to Safford and enquired at a few a hotels for a nights sleep. It was starting to annoy that I was even considering paying another 60 bucks for a room. I said right from the beginning that I would be camping for the majority of this trip and here I find myself looking for another room. It was still early and I decided to find a RV park instead. I stopped at the local tourist information and the lady was a dream. She rang around the parks and found a campsite for me for 5 bucks. She then produced an apple and a variety of cereal bars for me to devour.

I got to my campsite and sun baked for an hour before erecting my tent and winding down for the evening. I cooked myself some super noodles and made a hot chocolate, delicious. I could not believe this was only my third time I had used my cooker.

When I left Vegas I set myself two goals and that was to cycle 500 miles and pass through Arizona in seven days. It looks as though I am on course for both predications. In fact, I may have cycled about 550 miles in seven days if everything goes according to plan tomorrow.

I just remember something that I saw today. My very first sightings of a racoon and a skunk, albeit they were dead on the side of the road. I must digress one moment. Since I had my bike accident a year my sinuses are constantly blocked. However, when you hover over such road kill it was amazing how quickly it cleared the nostrils! Forget Sinex, they need to bottle the smell of rotting flesh in the boiling heat! Good night chums!

Day 18 Miami, Arizona

2008-10-21T15:25:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 36 Ride time 3hr 20min
Avg speed 10.63mph Total mileage 976

I woke up to the hideous sound of my alarm and glad to have not been eaten alive. Although my mouth was dry as a bone and a reached for the water bottles for any remaining droplets left. My head was pounding but my legs felt good. I packed up swiftly and got on the road. I was hoping to make the next town within the hour but due to the headwind it took 90mins. I have to admit that at one point I questioned myself about drinking my own urine! I remember from my school days that it is okay to drink it a couple of times before it gets too toxic. Fortunately, there was an end in sight and I didn’t have to go to such an extreme.

Yesterdays effort took more out of me than I thought. My right Achilles heel was in agony on every revolution. I had this problem whilst cycling across OZ several years ago and rest was the only solution. I made an executive decision to finish very early, do some laundry and relax for the afternoon. After all, I had cycled 360miles in 4 days and needed to chill.

I happened to stop in a place called Miami, unfortunately not the one in Florida. I checked into a relatively cheap hotel and was happy with my decision. Sorry to bore you with the details but I thought I would let you know how I am keeping the blog so up to date. Unlike on our road to Istanbul trip we were having to locate a internet café everyday and spending an hour updating the blog. Due to the lack of sun light hours, I knew I would not have that luxury and decided on buying a very tiny travel laptop. Thus allowing me to write the diary in the evening and when I come across somewhere with Wi-Fi, I would cheekily jump onto an unsecured network and upload the blog/photos. I also have skype, which allows me to make very cheap international calls. I have been astounded by how available Wi-Fi is and how difficult it has been to get mobile phone coverage.

In fact, I was thinking today, that my laptop will be what “Wilson” the volleyball was to Tom Hanks in Castaway. It has been my companion, my enemy and outlet. I know it will be a big drag having to write stuff at the end of the day but on the other hand I will be grateful for it afterwards. Although, if I start dancing around a fire with lappy (my laptops name) in hand I know its time to check myself into a nut clinic.

Day 17 Florence Junction, Arizona

2008-10-21T14:26:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 115 (new highest) Ride time 7hr 56min
Avg speed 14.50mph Total mileage 940

I treated myself to another shower this morning and was on the road by 0745hrs. I stopped almost instantly and bought myself a coffee and muffin. The wind looked good and I was informed it was a flat ride into Phoenix. They were right. The road was so straight I could follow it into the horizon until it turned into a dot. It was incredible and reminded me of cycling across Oz.

The landscape has changed dramatically in the last few days. The wilderness is covered in a variety of cacti. I have been wanting to see theses ever since I began this adventure. The traffic started to increase as I approached the outskirts of Phoenix. I made a decision to by pass the city by going as far south and then east as possible. I was hoping to bump into a bike shop along the way as I only have one spare inner tube left.

The road east went on forever. Including a few stops, it took me approximately 5 hours to pass the city. It didn’t help by the amount of frigging traffic lights but nevertheless it a massive sprawl of a city. 4 o clock came and I still felt good and decided to push on to a rest area at a junction 16 miles out the city. The sun came down so quickly but I still managed to cycle fast, despite having cycled 100 miles already.

The rest areas have been well marked on my maps and extremely reliable. But not this time. With no water remaining and nothing in sight I decided to find somewhere to wild camp. I scouted the ground and found a patch in a disused garage forecourt. There are several large holes in the ground that could be inhabited by spiders or scorpions. Not that I know anything about rattlesnakes, but this looks like an ideal spot for them too. I erected my tent in lightening fashion and jump in it for cover. As I lay inside my tent, I hear 5 shotgun shots echo around the hills. They sounded pretty close. I am not so worried about the gunmen, more about what they are shooting! Nothing that will get me I hope.

I am so thirsty. I should have been more prepared and had an emergency supply of water. Its going to be 18 miles in the morning before I come across a water supply. I must stop writing about it as it making more thirsty!

I was told today that I will be interviewed by the sexy Kate Thornton when I fly back into Heathrow airport as apart of a new series they are filming. In that case, I am definitely going to keep the beard as it adds to the authenticity of the journey!

I have added a video that I have edited using my mobile phone, hence the cheesy music over the top! Hope you enjoy it.

Day 16 Highway 93 Wickenburg, Arizona

2008-10-20T10:30:00.001-07:00

Stats

Daily mileage 79 Ride time 6hr 35min
Avg speed 11.97mph total mileage 825

I woke up out of my dream world and sat forward. I felt an instant sharp pain on my bum cheek. I decided to head for the shower and check it out. I got into position that was most likely in the book of karma sutra and identified several very large boils. Considering I am wearing the same pair of cycling shorts day in day out I guess I should expect this. Its not as grim as you think as they are being wiped with baby wipes everyday! Whilst we are talking about hygiene, I decided to wear a fresh pair of socks today. I have warn the other ones inside out and they are starting to become rigid!

I went back to my tent and noticed the massive American flag was blowing ever so softly in my direction. I smiled and thought to myself “about time”. As I approached my bike I noticed the rear tyre was flat and upon examination I had collect a staple that had pierced the tyre. A quick change of inner tubes saw to the problem and I then packed away. I was very conscience of the water situation today so I went to the café and purchased a coffee and drank lots of water. At 0830 I got on my bike with a total of 4 litres to cover 75 miles. I took a glance at the flag and noticed the wind had changed and began slapping me in the face. I really didn’t want a tough day because of the food and water situation.

The roads were hilly and the temperature was in the 90s by 1000am. The only rest bite from the wind was when the cars and trucks passed me at 65mph. It was a dangerous game but the wind was making it incredible hard. I continued cycling until I hit the wall. My legs were weak and I was shaking from head to toe. I had to stop and eat something. By pure coincidence, a car pulled over because something came loose on their trailer. I needed water badly and they happily obliged.

I got back on the bike and battled against the wind. I couldn’t sit still, the saddle was becoming painful and my mind was weak. The only thing I could focus on was the tumble weed beside me being bent over by the wind. If only it was blowing the other way I would be flying along. Cycling is so fickle!

I must mention about the vehicles over here. In general they are simply bigger and appear to be a status symbol of some sort. A recreational vehicle (massive campervan) passed me today. It was the size of a coach and had a moped on the back. It was also pulling a 4wd truck that had a quad bike in its trunk. I was gob smacked. I don’t get it. Why do they need all that to go camping. Insane, I tell you!

At 1600 I reached the first town I had seen since this morning and was somewhat relieved. I went to an RV park but the manager was an obnoxious idiot and was not willing to help me. Thoroughly pissed off, I decided to find a cheap hotel and chill for the rest of the day. I found one for 40 dollars and checked in.

I studied the maps and predict some more hard riding for the next 2 weeks and then I will be on the flat ground. For me to reach Florida for my flight home I need to do about 500 miles a week. If the winds continues whacking me around the chops then I will struggle to reach my target.
As you may have noticed, the photos for the past few days have been pretty rubbish. Once again, I have become obsessed with maximising my ride time and haven’t wanted to stop and get my camera out. I will try and take more pictures tomorrow.

This is my beard after 20 days of growth! Lets see it mature over this trip. If I capture any bugs in their I will take photo evidence for y’all.

Day 15 Highway 93 Wikieup, Arizona

2008-10-18T19:43:00.001-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 99 Ride time 7hr 24min
Avg speed 13.39mph total mileage 746

I slept really well and woke up as the sun came up. I popped into the bar for a coffee and was on the road by 0730hrs. The wind was smacking me in the face as I plodded along. I had 45 miles to go before I could get some food and water. The terrain was flat and I tried to put my mind elsewhere and away from the throbbing pain in my left knee.

I stopped after an hour to munch on some snacks I had in my bag and then put it in a 150min stint on the saddle. It felt good to get to Kingman but I was very aware that the next leg meant I had to ride on the motorway for 18miles. I didn’t stop for long as I knew I had another 50miles to my destination. The route out of Kingman was on the famous route 66. After a brief spell I joined the motorway. The hard shoulder was littered in glass and pebbles and I was thinking this would be a terrible place to break down.

The heat was insane and I sweated buckets. I have a line of spots forming across my forehead where my helmet rubs. I also have a line of spots forming elsewhere but I shall spare you the details for once!

Eventually I turned off the motorway and begun heading south on the 93. The road was very narrow and there was no hard shoulder. The traffic was thick but there was no alternative route. I kept a close eye on my mirror and wished the miles would tick away quicker. I drank my water sparingly but soon ran out. The more I thought about water the worse it got.

I had been praying all day that there would be a camp at Wikieup and to my delight there was. My speedo read 99miles which irritated me a bit but I was so desperate for a drink I didn’t care. I had a glorious shower and went to the restaurant for a pizza. I bought a 16inch and devoured most of it. The remaining is in the box under my roll matt waiting for breakfast time. I cant leave it outside in case the ants get to it!

I got speaking to the owner who informed me that there was nothing for the first 72 miles tomorrow. I have decided I will down lots of liquids for breakfast and take an extra 1.5l of water. I should really take an extra 3l but I don’t want to carry the weight. Decisions, decisions…..

Day 14 Highway 93 South of Hoover Dam, Arizona

2008-10-18T11:40:00.000-07:00

Stats

Daily mileage 67 Ride time 5hr 15min
Avg speed 12.38mph total mileage 647

Alarm rang at 0600hrs and I began packing my gear. Kevin and I had oats and coffee for breakfast and we decided to pop to Wal-Mart for some groceries. When I returned home last night I noticed I had developed a flat tyre so I fixed that before leaving the house.

I thanked Kevin profusely for his hospitality and eventually got on the road by 1030. I had no idea where I was going to end up tonight as the environment will be very baron. It took about 2 hours to get out of Vegas and I had to ride on my first motorway, albeit brief. The ride to the Hoover Dam was congested and hilly. I passed a cycle race that was about to start in Boulder City and was very tempted to join in. I could tell I was feeling fitter now than when I first left 2 weeks ago.

The main road actually passes over the Dam and I took some more dam photos! There were tourist everywhere and many of them were taking photos of me. Lots of people were asking what I am doing and when they reply “that’s a long way to Florida son” I shrug my shoulders as if to say no problem In truth, I cant wait for the day when people reply “not far now son”.

With the heat hitting low 90F I was running out of water very fast. There was nothing between the Dam and a bar some 30 miles away, so I took the opportunity to fill up when I could see some tourist.

With the sun setting around 1730hrs, I was hoping that bar would let me camp there. I rocked up with little sunlight left and they showed me a spot in front of someone’s trailer. I went to the bar with all my belongs as I didn’t trust my stuff around there. Most of the folk could barely string a sentence together, but the swear words were easy to distinguish. I had a few beers and snuck away. I had a bad feeling they would transform into creatures after midnight and I didn’t fancy being on the menu!

I retired back to the tent and the owner of the trailer came out. Couldn’t understand a thing apart from Vietnam War. Hopefully, my bike and I am still around in the morning. I am setting my alarm early tomorrow, wonder why!!

Day 13 Las Vegas, Nevada

2008-10-16T23:22:00.000-07:00

I woke up early and got the bus to the strip. I was there a little early but that was fine as I was not too sure where I had to meet the tour bus. It all ran like clock work and we began the 250 mile drive to the canyon. We briefly stopped off at the Hoover Dam to take some photos and then herded back onto the bus. I tried not to look out the window for the next 100 miles as I am doing the same stretch tomorrow. I did noticed the road was busy and, in parts, there is no hard shoulder.

We stopped for another buffet lunch and I ate until I popped. I continued my usually routine of going straight to the loo to relieve the extra weight! After another long drive we finally made it to the canyon. I have heard mixed reviews about the grand canyon and the fact that I got up at 0500hrs and only just arrived at 1450hrs I was hoping to not be disappointed. It was terrific, the pure grandeur was out of this world and I was sucking in immediately. We only had 90mins to enjoy the sight but that did not stop me hiking along the ridge from Mather Point to Yavapai Observation Station.

The sunlight demonstrated a dazzling variety of colourful rock layers, impressive buttes and shadowed side canyons. The Grand Canyon is the canyon against which all other canyons are compared.

Back on the road tomorrow………..bring it on!

Day 12 Las Vegas, Nevada

2008-10-16T23:10:00.000-07:00

Kevin and I decided to head to the Orleans Casino hotel for a buffet breakfast. I quickly went to the loo to make myself as empty as possible and we took a bus to our destination. The casino was not on the main strip but nevertheless it was still impressive. This was my first experience of a Las Vegas casino and it was just full of a variety of slot machines and other ways inexperienced gamblers could burn their money. The breakfast hall was simply massive and had everything on offer and I mean everything. Cake, fruit, Mexican breaky, French breaky, American breaky, to name but a few.

We spent about 90 mins eating and chatting and decided that my priority for the day were to get some maps and organise a tour to the Grand Canyon. This will allow me to head directly south east from Vegas and avoid the high mountains and inevitable bad weather with it. The plan now is to head towards Phoenix and then along the Mexican border allowing me to stay as south as possible. The disadvantage of this is that I will not be able visit Bryce and Zion National Park, however I always knew the weather would be a dominant factor on this trip.

For the first part of the trip I had been using AAA maps that you can get for free if you are a member. I headed to the local depot with my fingers crossed that I could have some more as I am not a member. I spoke to the lady at the counter who initially really wasn’t playing ball. “No sir, if you are not a member you can not have them and we don’t sell them.” she kept repeating. I discussed buying a membership but she said I had to have an American address and then I told her I would buy it for my friend but he didn’t have a car which seemed to be a problem (AAA is an automobile association). I asked her to cut me some slack and repeated what I am doing and the fact I was doing by bicycle. With a but of persistence she said she would go speak to the manager who later joined me. Another quick explanation, she happily helped me and gave me enough maps to get me from Vegas to Florida! Thank you AAA.

I returned back to the house and after lots of shopping around I purchased a tour for the Grand Canyon departing a t 0625hrs tomorrow. With all my stuff completed, I trotted into the heart of Vegas and experience the so called paradise. I got there in the daylight and it was packed and I wasn’t feeling the vibe. It seemed so over the top from the billion dollar casino halls to the line of Mexicans handing out calling cards advertising women to your door in 20 mins! It was a far cry from the isolation I had experienced over the last 10 days.

I grabbed some coffee and people watched as the sun dropped. I wanted to watch some of the free shows on along the strip. The first was the Sirens Pirate show outside Treasure Island hotel/casino. By 1900hrs a massive crowd had formed and the show got underway. In short, there were two pirate ships opposite each other. One being occupied by beautiful scantly clad ass and the other by macho dudes. With lots of dancing, music and pyrotechnics the show climaxed with one boat sinking into the water and the women ruling the world. As cheesy as it was I actually enjoyed it.

Next stop was the Freemont St Experience located in downtown at the other end of the strip. I got off the bus, heard lots of cheering and realised the 6 min show had just finished and the next was in another hour. I soaked up the vibe of various casinos along the street and grabbed myself a beer. At the stroke of the hour the Freemont Experience begun. This street is enclosed by a roof several 100 meters long that is covered in thousands of light bulbs. The results is a massive TV with an explosion of light and music that shows carefully choreographed images. The show is different every hour but mine was to the music “American Pie” and the animation was awesome. You couldn’t help just looking up with your mouth open in amazement. I pulled myself together when I noticed a tap in my toes and a slight swagger in the hips! Old folks do that! Vegas was starting to infect me and the vibe was exciting and so different to anywhere else on earth.

The final stop was the fountain display outside the Bellagio Casino. I had seen this one briefly in the movies and didn’t think I would be that impressed. Boy, how wrong could I be. Every 15mins a song is blasted out into the street and the sprinklers get to work in time with the music. The jets of water were being blasted in the air as high as 80meters. I enjoyed it so much I stuck around for a few more displays.

It was starting to get late so I headed back to the bus stop via Caesars Palace casino. I had a flutter on the slots and walked through the shopping mall. The ceiling is painted in the design of the sky and you could easily loose track of time but that is obviously their intention! I got in around midnight and went straight to sleep as I had to be up in 5 hours. Night!

Day 11 Las Vegas, Nevada

2008-10-15T14:13:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 58 Ride time 4hr 55min
Avg speed 11.76mph Total Mileage 580

I woke up with the aim to eat as much food as possible. I strategically chose clothes with lots of pockets so I was my own human doggy bag. I got to the buffet and was slightly disappointed, however I didn’t let that stop me. Overall, I ate 2 bowls of cereal, a large plate of scrambled egg, 3 sausage, fried potatoes, an apple, a yogurt, a Danish bun, a muffin, 2 coffees, 2 hot chocolates and 2 orange juices. I rolled back to my room and sat on the toilet for awhile in the hope that I wouldn’t have to carry all that weight up the 5494ft mountain.

I got in on the road and the wind had died down. I topped up with water and more food because there was nothing for the next 43 miles and the sun rays were beating down. The pass was tough and never ending but 3 hours later I got to the peak and stopped at mountain spring saloon. I got chatting to the owner who offered me a beer and we sat in the glorious sun.

An hour passed and I decided to leave and begin the decent into Las Vegas. I navigated my way through the suburbs to my host house. Kevin was surprised to see me as he had not been receiving my emails but invited me in nevertheless. We chatted somewhat about possible routes to take and some of his awesome adventures. One being a 2800 mile walk across the continental divide that passes from Mexico through the US, up to Canada. After an awesome dinner, I retired to bed and pondered my options.

Day 10 Pahrump, Nevada

2008-10-13T21:37:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 64 Ride time 6hr 13min
Avg speed 10.26mph total mileage 522

I ignored my alarm several times this morning and refused to get out of my sleeping bag. Eventually, my disciplined hat came on and I sprung into action. I made a decision to exit Death Valley from an alternative point as I was concerned for the 70 miles without food or water and two mountain passed I would have faced. This did annoy me as it meant missing out on Badwater point, the lowest point in America, and it was supposed to be a spectacular ride.

The wind was back with a vengeance and was in my face for the first 5 miles. I stuck on my ipod and tried to ignore the pain until a loud sound was rhythmically resonating around me. To my horror I worked out the sound was coming from my bike. The last thing I wanted to do was break down in Death Valley. I had visions of my skeleton lying on the side of the road after being pecked to death by vulchers. Fortunately, it was only a screw that had come loose on the mudguard but it did require me to remove everything off of the bike.

After 3 hours I had climbed the pass and was at Death Valley junction. I popped into the hotel for some sandwiches that was advertised on the side of the road. They were actually frozen and required microwaving before I could eat them! I was in pain, tired and fed up of the strong head wind. I was really considering calling it a day but that would have meant a massive effort to get to Las Vegas tomorrow. I slapped myself around the face and told myself to get on with it. A bought a frozen sandwich to go and put my head down hit the road.

Within a few miles I had left my first state and crossed into Nevada. The next 25miles was uneventfully and the isolation really hit me. All I could see was a vast expanse of nothingness. I made a decision that when I get to my destination I would treat myself to a hotel.

I have become very preoccupied with time, distance and the desire to keep going on. I am constantly working out the time it will take to get to my goals and feel guilty if I stop to eat. It keeps coming back to efficiency, so much so I am becoming obsessed with wasting time. I must stop this because it making me push harder then my body is currently capable off.

At approx 1730hrs I checked into a Best Western hotel and reluctantly paid the extortionate price. The lady wasn’t budging on the room rate and almost laughed at my haggling attempt. I thought to myself, you wait until that buffet breakfast I am going to eat so much of the food you will have to cart me out!

I went to my room and ran the bath and made a coffee. I was not going to get out of that bath until my fingers went wrinkly. I rigged up my laptop so I could watch a movie from the bath and felt in heaven. The colour of the bath water looked like a sewer once I got out. I spent the next few hours typing away on the internet naked so all my bits could heal themselves. On that lovely thought I shall say goodnight….

Day 9 Furnace Creek, Death Valley

2008-10-13T08:29:00.000-07:00

Stats:
Daily mileage: 56 Ride Time: 4hr 36
Avg speed: 12.15mph Total miles: 458

Oh my god my head really hurt this morning. My beer to food ratio was severely one sided last night and I felt rough before the day had even started. Just the right preparation to climb a 5000ft mountain!

I went back to the bar and had a greasy omelette and vast amounts of coffee. I took it casually as I didn’t plan on it being a long day in the saddle but I was aware of trying to cross the pass in the midday sun.

Severely dehydrated, I hit the road and was chugging up the hill almost instantly. A motorist pulled over and offered me a top up on the liquids which I happily obliged. The wind was so strong and the road was so steep, my speed was at a constant 4mph. I learnt something about myself on that uphill section, I have incredible balance. To cycle at such a slow speed requires great skill not to fall over side ways!

I calculated the pass would take me a little over 2 hours to reach the top and I felt every second of it. The temperature of the wind was piercingly cold but there was nothing I could do. I eventually got to the top and was able to see the heart of Death Valley. I wrapped up with my woolly hat and bandana to cover my cracked lips and sore nose. The descent was awesome, I didn’t pedal for about 9 miles. I just sat on the saddle and admired the view whilst adjusting to the temperature change as I decreased in elevation.

I reached Stone Pipe Well, were I had originally planed on camping. I spoke to the park ranger, who stated the camping doesn’t open until the 15th Oct. She told me I would have to go to Furnace Creek, which was only 30 min drive. I looked at her and thought does this bike look like a car?!? But that isn’t the first time people have given me distance markers in terms of car travelling time. The other day a lady told me my selected destination would take 40 mins to drive and 50 mins to cycle. Bearing in mind the road was straight with a speed limit of 55mph, I thought this lady really doesn’t cycle!!

Anyway I digress, I bought some food and water and got back on the road. I passed some random sand dunes and made good time on the bike. Mentally, I was drained and didn’t know where I was at. The temperature was in the high 80’s and I wanted to get out of the sun. My head pounded from the beer the previous night and the physical exertion from this morning. I eventually arrived at the camp and decided to give my bike a spring clean. I ate a pot noodle for dinner and planned my route to Las Vegas.

Day 8 Panamint Springs, Death Valley

2008-10-12T07:53:00.000-07:00

Stats:
Daily mileage: 113 (highest yet) Ride Time: 6hr 10
Avg speed: 18.27mph Total miles: 402

It was a cold night but the wind disappeared. I opened the tent to heat up my left over chilli bean and pasta and noticed the mountains behind me had been covered in a fresh layer of snow. I have since found out that the Tioga Pass that I went over a few days ago has been closed due to extreme weather and passed just at the right time.

I got myself a coffee and hit the road. It felt amazing, the tail wind allowed me to keep an average speed of 21 mph for 3 hours. For some of you less blessed with mathematics, that’s 63miles (100km) in three hours. Either way, it was brilliant riding.

The scenery was stunning. I was still cycling along the 395 through Owen’s valley and on one side I had a mountain range covered in cloud and on the other, a mountain range separating Death Valley. Although, I did have one moment of madness. As I was burning along I noticed an animal beside the road that looked like a dog from afar. As I drew closer, it became apparent it was not a dog, but a bloody wolf or coyote. It was happily sitting in the bike lane waiting for happy cyclist to munch on! With noting to throw at it I armed myself with my water bottle and stood up out of the saddle. About 20m away I started shouting in the hope I would scare it off but it was only until I sang American Pie at the top of my voice that it fled back into the bush!

That confirmed my lack of singing abilities! Very funny scenario now but it wasn’t at the time I can assure you. I arrived at Lone Pine at midday and found it a very bizarre town. People were walking around in wild west outfits with whips and everything. I stopped for some food and was informed by the waiter that there was a wild west weekend here and people came from all over the country to be there very own John Wayne for the day. Odd but very funky.

I stocked up on supplies to last me the next 50 miles into Panamint Springs. I knew there was more climbing involved but I was excited to get to Death Valley national park. I really felt the isolation once I turned off the 395 and prayed I would not have any problems. The scenery got even more dramatic. It ranged from canyons to desserts. The final 9 miles were downhill and spectacular. The colours in the rock were magical.

I got to camp and was given a pitch that is used for caravans. I broke 3 pegs trying to get them into the ground and then I gave up. I spoke to a neighbour who informed me the wind was strong again last night and might be repeated tonight. I decided to line my tent with the biggest rocks I could lift. That had to do the trick.

I went over to the bar and treated myself to a well earned litre glass of beer. I got taking to a bloke from Florida and we had a good chat about hiking in the area. As we were talking a couple walked through the door. These were the same people that were sitting behind me on the plane and also got the airport transfer bus to San Francisco city center. At the time, I jokingly told them I might bump into them along the route. Infact, we already did at Yosemite Village and again now in Death Valley. We all chatted and drank several more litres of beer.

I retired to my tent in my pissed state and decided to have a little campfire like everybody else. I searched numerous other fire pits for left over wood and got a great fire going. I sat there scoffing M&Ms admiring my handy work with the tent and feeling quite satisfied with my efforts for the day. Although, I avoided looking left as the moon outlined the 5000ft hill I have to pass in the morning! Bring it on…………

2008-10-11T18:37:00.001-07:00

Day 7 Bishop - highway 395
Stats
Daily mileage 42 Ride time 3hr 05min
Avg speed 13.56mph total mileage 289

That gale I hoped didn’t return did and I had a horrific nights sleep. Last night I got speaking to another camper and he suggested I camped on his pitch besides his Recreational Vehicle to save money and to get some cover from the wind. It didn’t make much of a difference as the wind was so strong the tent was being blown inwards, which resulted on the inside sticking to my face! At 6.30am I decided to get up to try and dismantle the tent before it blew away.

The commotion woke my neighbour who offered me coffee that included a liqueur cream that really hit the spot. Lou and I chatted for a while and he gave me some advice about what to expect. My lips were chapped from the cold and my skin was covered in salt crystals. I haven’t had a shower in 2 days of extreme riding. I wasn’t that concerned as I thought I would be able to clean myself up when I met my www.warmshower.org host.

I got on the road by 8am and enjoyed the tail wind, albeit brief. The air was still very cold and I had to wear my woolly hat and jacket. I listened to my ipod and the next minute I found myself at Bishop. I went to the address of my host but there was no sign of life. I went to their neighbours to confirm they lived there but was informed they were probably at work and are not normally back for another 5 hours. I decided to head into town and find bicycle shop and have the gears given another once over. With hours to kill, I went to library and email my host in case she checks her account at work. I received a reply stating she was out of town for the weekend and thought I was coming later in the month. Nevertheless, she offered me her yard to camp in and to help myself to her tomatoes.

I returned to her house and set up camp and analysed the route to Death Valley. Whilst making dinner the winds finally died down but then I was treated to a snow storm!! I have been feeling pretty shitty today. Its probably a combination of a lack of sleep, a desperate need for a shower and laundry and something to do with the fresh boils I am getting on my arse.

This video was meant to be on yesterdays log1

Day 6 Convict lake - highway 395

2008-10-10T13:03:00.000-07:00

Stats

Daily mileage 73

Ride time 6hr 22min

Avg speed 11.37mph

Total mileage 247 MAX SPEED!!! 48.11mph

This was my first night in my one man tent and I forgot how small it is. As soon as I moved the condensation dripped onto my face so I decided to get up and out quickly. I removed the outer tent and placed it in the path of the rising sun. I was trying to make as much noise as possible so it would wake up my lovely neighbours in the hope they would offer me some coffee!

It was so cold I couldn’t feel my fingers. I went over to the rotate the tent and found the water droplets had actually turned into ice crystals. I knew it was cold but didn’t realise it was that bad. What was frustrating was that in Greeley Hill I decided to send back some of my winter cycling clothes because I didn’t think it was going to be that bad!! Wrong move!

I left without breakfast and hit the road. For the first 15 miles the views were stunning and I kept stopping to take photos. From one view point you could see the reverse of half dome mountain.

The riding began to get tough and the air was extremely fresh. I naturally developed a sweat on the uphill but when I went down, the wind was ice cold on my chest. I kept looking up to see if I was getting any closer to the top and I was starting to wonder whether this hill would ever end and sure enough it did. I was so happy when I saw the 9945ft Tioga Pass sign. What made it even more magical was the sign stating 12 mile down hill.

On the descent the wind was incredibly strong and very unpredictable. One moment there was nothing and the next I was being blown to the edge. Without even really trying, I hit my top speed ever at an impressive 48 mph. I got to the bottom and decided to head out of my way to Lee Vinning for some coffee and food. I went into the tourist information and over heard the clerk talking about St Michaels Mount and Eden Project in Cornwall, England. I found that rather bizarre and had to step in when he began making things up. The clerk was surprised when I told him I live there.

I retraced my steps and continued south on highway 395. It was considerably warmer at the lower elevation and I thoroughly enjoyed the riding until the wind picked up and my gears started slipping. I soldiered on and decided to call it a day at Lake Convict. The winds here reached 70mph last night. I am in a lot of trouble if that happens tonight because I could not get my pegs into the hard ground properly! I have a short day planned tomorrow as I will be staying with a http://www.warmshower.org/ host.

Day 5 Yosemite National Park - Porcupine camp

2008-10-09T13:15:00.000-07:00

Stats
Daily mileage 60 Ride time 6hr 45min
Avg speed 8.93mph Total mileage 175

“pain is temporary, quitting is forever”. I had to say that to myself too many times today. That was probably the toughest days riding I have ever done on a bicycle. Ann drove me back to where my chain snapped so I could continue from the same point and I got stuck straight in. The elevation at the start was around 2800ft. Ann was cheering me along and was acting as a back up for the first 15miles. Eventually, I told her I was ok to go along and thank her for all her kindness. She was incredible and cannot thank her enough.

It started getting hot and the road got steeper. I could barely keep it above 6mph on the hills and knew I was in for a tough day. I was drinking copious amounts of fluid and topped it up when ever I could. 9 miles after the Yosemite gate entrance I passed a sign stating the elevation was 5000ft. I was at a point where I had to decided whether to finish the day early or try and push on another 25 miles up to the camp situated at 8000ft. My legs were burning and soar and I really should have stopped there but instead I got on the bike and continued the climb to the camp.

The problem was that it was not just a simple climb. I was constantly going up and down therefore climbing even more. I honestly believe I have climbed about 7000ft (2,300m) today and was finding it so tough near the end. I also drunk about 9 litres of water throughout the day. My t shirt was covered in salt stains and I found myself sucking the top to get some salt back in my body. Disgusting, I know!

At 5.30pm I got to my campsite and to my relief there were plenty of spots available. I enquired with another caravan about water but was informed there is none at this campsite. She kindly offered some water so I could wash my sweaty bits and ask me to join them for dinner and wine. I happily excepted and we spent the evening chatting about our different travels. They also told me that they are both cancer suffers and one of them was given only 5 months to live. That was 5 years ago! They both had some incredible and inspiring stories about there illnesses.

At 9pm I retired to my tent in lots of pain. I dread to think how I will be feeling in the morning. I cant wait to get over these hills. Bring on the flats!

I have been meaning to tell you about this funny scenario with the cashier at the general store. When Ann, the elderly lady who saved me, first picked me up we popped into her local store for some groceries. You have to imagine this store was in the middle of nowhere and has very few foreigners pass through. As we were at the checkout, Ann told the cashier that she had just picked up this English cyclist on the side of the road. The cashier looked at me and the first thing she said was “…errr isnt that where that famous murderer was from…..whats his name again…I cant remember”. I was trying so hard not to laugh in her face but maintained my poker face. As she was scanning the products she shouted with great satisfaction “…jack the ripper”. I couldn’t hold it in any longer and roared with laughter. I found it hysterical that the first thing that came into her head when she thought of England was jack the ripper and that it took about 5 mins to recall it. I love these country folk!!

2008-10-07T18:52:00.000-07:00

Today was all about getting the bike fixed so after we ate homemade porridge and honey we headed out to Sonora. The man in the bike shop wasn’t surprised the chain snapped as the road was in the top 3 of the steepest hills in the state. He asked me why I didn’t just remove the two broken links. I explained that I can ride bikes but do not have a clue when it comes to bike maintenance. I left the bike in his capable hands and went next door for a coffee. I returned an hour later and completed a quick test drive. Everything seemed a lot smoother but I didn’t have the 45kg of weight on it! He warned me about potential dangers and the isolation that I am likely to face and advised me to get a bike manual. I smiled and thanked him for his advise and left the shop hoping he was lying!

To catch up on lost time, we drove back to Yosemite National Park and visited the Yosemite Village. The views were stunning. We completed the loop and saw El Captain and the Half Dome rock. We grabbed some grub, my third burger since being in the states, and headed back home to the ranch.
I spent the evening worrying about the next few days. I have to go through Yosemite and over a pass that is over 3000m high. This is higher than the alps we crossed on the previous adventure and I have lost confidence in the bike. The other massive issues is accommodation. The only campsite on my route is on a first come first served basis and I wont be there until late afternoon. The other option is to wild camp but there is a real danger of bears and lions. The other serious issues is food and water. If I want to take enough for two days, the bike will be so heavy I will probably break another chain. It will not be physically possible to take two days water on a 64mile/2500m elev. climb. Decision, decisions….

Right now I need everyone to put there hands together and pray for me! Fingers, legs, arms and nasal hair crossed please!

Day 3 Greeley Hill

2008-10-07T10:10:00.000-07:00

I woke up in a great mood and felt harmony with the world. The fact I was not getting on the bike was a massive relief. Ann and I went to the local café and had a cooked breakfast with lots of coffee. I spoke to the local shop and begged them to use their Wi-Fi. At lunch Ann and I went for a drive around Yosemite National Park. I was a little reluctant at first as I didn’t want to see the roads I had to ride on. Parts of me now wish I hadn’t as I have some stonking hills between now and Death Valley.

We started at Rainbow Pools which was a lovely little oasis. It was so peaceful and the only company we had were ground squirrels. From here we headed to Tuolumne Grove. I have never seen such large trees, one in particular was over 352 ft and we could walk through the trunk of another one. We decided to circle back to Ann’s ranch via the edge of Yosemite Valley. The view was incredible and gave me a little taster of what I will see in the next few days.

So, the plan tomorrow is to try and get the biked fixed and depending on how long that will take will determine my course of action. After seeing the terrain between here and Tioga Pass, it has made me a little anxious that the bike wont make it. I will be going up hill for about 40 miles!

Day 2 Greeley Hill (WARNING lots of writing)

2008-10-05T16:22:00.000-07:00

Stats: Daily mileage: 29 Ride Time: 3hr 30 Avg speed: 8.46mpg Total miles: 114
If I wrote today’s entry a few hours ago I would be screaming at the world and kicking myself for doing such a stupid trip! Instead I am sitting in a caravan drinking a bud whilst munching on a massive bag of chocolate M&Ms thinking life is pretty interesting if you let it.

I woke up this morning to the tears of my bottom pleading for me not to get on that cheese splicer of a saddle. I stretched out and got instant cramp in my legs. In a sadistic moment I laughed at the pain and secretly enjoyed it. I packed up and left my little house and hit the road. It took about 20mins before I could sit on the saddle and I could barely keep the speed over 10 mph. I had no food and very little water left and was in a desperate situation.

All I could think about was M&Ms and coke. I checked the map and prayed a shop would be open in Chinese Camp. An hour later I arrived there and discovered the town consisted of one gasoline station and that was closed. I assumed it was because it was Sunday as it was 9.30am. Fortunately there was a coke vending machine out the front so I bought copious amounts of pop and sat in front of the shop looking very sorry for myself.

About 30 mins later I heard this strange buzzing sound. I could not see where it was coming from and then all over a sudden Elvis Presley’s “Suspicious Minds” came belting out a set of speakers above my head. Then I heard the unlocking of the shop door and was greeted by short stocky man. He offered me some coffee and gave me some complimentary chocolate. That coffee tasted amazing. We chatted for a bit and he warned me about a road that lies ahead. He explained there are two possible routes that lead to the same point but I would have to choose between the long winder road or the short steep one. With my spirits lifted I hit the road and past a beautiful lake.

For the past two days I have noticed my bikes gears have not felt right but I chose to ignore it and look into it when I come across the next bike shop. Besides it was serviced just before coming out to the states so I didn’t expect any problems. Anyhow, I got to the split and chose the short steep road. I wanted the challenge of a real tough climb and boy that’s what I got. I had to drop it down to the bottom gear and was averaging about 5/6mph. I pulled over at a lay by to grab some water. A truck pulled over and offered to take me to the top but I politely refused. I wiped the dripping sweat from face, took a deep breath and pulled away. Within about 100m my chain went “SNAP”. I looked down and thought “F***”. In my 10,000miles I have covered by bicycle I have never snapped a chain. I did not have a spare either.

I was in the middle of nowhere and didn’t know what to do. I was looking at all the oncoming traffic with a face of desperation but I got nothing in return. I thought about contacting my hosts from San Francisco but they were about 150 miles away. Instead, I decided to push the bike to the top of the hill. The bike weighed a ton and it took me 40 mins. I was grimacing with every step as the skin on my blister had come off and was rubbing like hell. At the top, I checked the map and the next village was over 5 miles away and I put my head in my hands.

The only solution was to flag down a car and beg for help. The first car was a Chinese couple who said (in an Chinese accent) “I’m sorry sir, I’m not from round here!”. I hit the jackpot with the next car. It was an estate car being driven by an elderly lady. I told her about my predicament and she told me not to worry we will sort it out. I placed all my gear into her car and we cruised down to the next village. She treated me to a coffee and checked the yellow pages for a bicycle shop. The only good shop was over 40 mins away and closed Sun & Mon.

She told me she has a trailer at the back of her property in the forest and took me to a quaint village called Coulterville. I left my stuff in her car while I explored the museum and visited my first saloon. I walked through the two half swing doors, half expecting the music to stop and everyone to look at this English smuck walk through the door. To my surprise I was greeted with warm welcomes and I chilled for an hour on some of their local brew.

I got picked up and taken back to my home for the next few days. It was out in the middle of nowhere and was warned about the bears, mountain lions and deer that have been known to habit the area. We popped down to the local general store and bumped into her neighbour, Kevin. He was telling me he was going hunting for dear tomorrow but he uses his bow and arrow to hunt. I was hoping he would invited me along so I could play Rambo for the day but he didn’t.
We had a lovely salad for dinner and I retired to trailer to write the blog whilst eating M&Ms and drinking beer. I scattered a load of M&Ms outside the trailer in the hope to attract some bears or lions!

I forgot to mention about this old dude I met in the saloon and his theories on life experiences. He agreed this trip will be hard but explained I have been there before and know what to expect. He thinks the older and more experienced you get the more you get worried about things. Also, older people don't fulfil their potential not because they can't do things (e.g. old people can't learn new tricks) but more because of fear and self doubt. He reckons people think you learn about all the things that could go wrong and that starts to take over. He assured me that I am more equipped than ever before from other experience I have done so I will be fine. I guess its all in the head, whats another couple of mountains. Its just that people these days don't try to do it so are filled with fear and doubt. Plus other adults instil more fear and doubt and its an endless cycle.

Thank you oh wise one, I never did catch his name! Maybe it was my guardian angel.

This video was supposed to go one yesterday

Day 1 Knights Ferry

2008-10-05T16:19:00.000-07:00

Day 1 Knights Ferry
Stats:
Daily mileage: 85 Ride Time: 6hr 35
Avg speed: 12.93mph Total miles: 85

I slept very badly and was conscience of the rain spattering against the window. I was up at 6.20am and was feeling quite nervous about what lies ahead. I packed my bags and started loading up my bike. The front panniers went on fine but the rear ones did not. In my haste of leaving the UK, I somehow brought two rear left bags instead of a complete set. It was an easy mistake as Alison and I have the exact same bags and I have obviously picked up a mixed set. It is kind of like trying to wear two left shoes - it just wont work! I sat on the step and laughed at my stupidity and thought about the title of the trip again - “Unplanned and Unprepared”.
After removing several clips and putting them on upside down I got the pannier bag attached to the rack. However, I wish to make a prediction. The followers of the “Road to Istanbul” may recall we had a nightmare with these bags and had to fix them using beer tops as washers. I guarantee this will happen again as the other screws are now taking the weight of the bag.
That’s enough of my fortune telling. I decided last night that I will have to get the train out off the city and over the bay so I said goodbye to my lovely hosts and tried to ride my bike in a straight line. I went back to the “Mission” district to board the train and was surprised that there were no prostitutes around. I assumed they were having a lie in after their hard nights work!

I hated getting on the train, I really felt as though I was cheating. Although the alternative meant over a 100 mile detour. Once I was off the train, the adrenalin started pumping and it felt good to be back on the road. I had an awesome tail wind but I soon found myself asking for direction. I inevitably got ask the question “where am I going” and once I reply with Florida they look at me as if I am from another planet and then pity me. This pity is what I am counting on at the end of the day when I am looking for free accommodation.

10 miles down and my ass is already in pieces. My legs are burning and my neck feels as though it needs a brace. I stop for a quick bite to eat and reassure myself this trip will be worth the pain. Besides the last time I have ridden a bike was over 2 months ago so what did I expect!
I stopped several times more but at the 60 mile mark I had a burger king that makes me feel sick. I had no choice as I was starving and very thirsty. I set of again and make a decision not to go to a campsite 10miles in the wrong direction but instead, hope I will find something in my direction.

I made it to Knights Ferry and spoke to a man weeding his garden. I was asking about wild camping and one thing led to another and he invited me to stay in his out house. I assured him I would not trash the place and went for a walk along the rivers edge whilst watching the sun set.
My bum is already asking me not to get on the bike tomorrow and I keep reminding it that “pain is temporary, quitting is forever!”

San Francisco Day 3....it begins tomorrow!!!!

2008-10-03T20:02:00.000-07:00

Day 3

No alarm, no noise just the sound of silence. I woke up in peace and decided to hunt the web for possible routes out of San Francisco. Its turning out to be a lot more difficult than I thought. I can not cycle over the bridges in the direction I am heading and the roads heading East are all freeways (motorways). I gave up and walked into town via a very interesting district called “Mission”. I would like to describe the people I saw along the way as unique but I think that would be too kind. More like prostitutes, smack heads and drunks. I watched the police search a couple of people and a small hand gun was removed from one of them. I could not see whether it was real or just an imitation. I noticed my walking pace picked up somewhat after that!

I continued into town and met my room mate from my time at the Shaolin Temple in China. We cruised into china town which was actually quite impressive and felt somewhat like Asia as opposed to tourist trap of London’s china town. He showed me around more of the city and pointed out north beach, an area full of strip clubs. We contemplated going but it is bad for your health going that early!

I headed back to my hosts house where Jan had been to a map shop and got me several fantastic maps. I spent the evening pondering routes and packing my bags for my early departure tomorrow morning.

I have been meaning to write this on the last few diary entries but keep forgetting. I must point to all the readers that this blog will not be like the previous ones. By that, I mean the successful “Road to Istanbul” and the “Boys in the Bush” adventures. The reason for this is that I am writing this blog and I can not spell and struggle to put a sentence together correctly. Therefore expect plenty of mistakes so get used to it! I would also appreciate no comments regarding the above. If you don’t like it don’t bloody read it!

I have already noticed that I tend to waffle and start to bore myself with what I am writing. But I shall persevere with the dribble as I am doing this blog to stop my mum from worrying(!) and that I have a documented account of my emotions and experiences.

On more thing, one of the random people I met today was a busker in the “Mission” district. He sat on a crate with a stereo beside him whilst holding a cardboard cut out of a guitar. When the songs were playing he was stroking the pen drawn strings as if he was making the music. I walked past him pissing my pants!.

San Francisco Day 2

2008-10-02T19:26:00.001-07:00

Day 2
After sleeping for an eternity I woke up and began my foot tour of San Francisco. I began at Crissy Fields, which is a marsh land near the Golden Gate Bridge, and followed the Bay along to Fishermans Wharf. The route is a popular destination for joggers and cyclist with two very iconic backdrops, the bridge and Alcatraz. I had to go and visit Lombard street which is supposedly the windiest street in San Fran. I then walked along Pier 39 and chuclked at Bubba Gump shrimps restaurant and numerous other tourist attraction.
A visit to San Fran is not complete without seeing Alcatraz and it did not disappoint. The short ferry cruise split through the eerie fog forming on the water to reveal this imposing rock formation out in the bay. Walking through the prisoners quarters was fascinating and being able to stand in the isolation cells, alternatively known as the Hole, was truly scary. Inmates have spent up to 14 days in complete darkness in a room smaller than most bathrooms! I found the famous escape of Alcatraz ingenious and the fact that these prisoners where doing hard time for some terrible crimes were irrelevant!

The plan next was to head to Chinatown and get some fortune cookies however I had three enormous blister forming on my heels due to my spanking new shoes! I decided to pop them and return back to my host house before I could continue my sight seeing.

San Francisco

2008-10-01T20:40:00.000-07:00

I woke up to the sound of my alarm at 4.45am having only finished packing a few hours earlier. My transfer picked me up and we begin the horrible journey from Kent along the M25 to Heathrow airport. With the bike dangling of the back of the pick up truck I held my hands together and prayed it would survive the drive.

I completed the usual formalities at the airport and thought about charming the check in person for a free upgrade until I worked out it was actually a man. You cant always tell these days! Prior to checking in, I weighed my luggage and including my bike, but not food or water, the total weight was 42kg. I thought about ditching one of my three pairs of pants (underwear - bloody Ozzies) but I thought I was already living on the hygiene line as it was!

The 10hr long flight was bumpy but I kicked back and watched “Sex in the City” movie with my newly acquired red airplane socks and head mask on whilst drinking a whiskey and coke. Upon arrival at immigrations I was asked to have a private chat with officials because of too many recent stamps from Africa and Turkey in my passport. I don’t think they believed me about the bike trip either.

I was finally released and made my way into San Francisco to meet my host from www.warmshowers.org. I was introduce to her partner and shown into my luxury room. By this time I was exhausted and just wanted to sleep but I quickly built the bike and had a lovely dinner and chatted about what lies in front of me.

2 days before departure!!!

2008-09-29T09:10:00.000-07:00

With my three pairs of underwear all packed, i am almost done on the packing front. Apart from the bike, tent, electrical stuff, spares, clothes and smellies. Okay okay, i am nowhere near ready but at least im staying true to the trip title! The goal tonight is to get the bike in a box and have a go at erecting my tent so i dont look a complete tool trying to put it up on the first night. Other than that i have been trying to sort out some accomodation along the route via a wicked website called http://www.warmshowers.org/! So far i have been offered a sail around San Fran bay and a floor to sleep on in Yosemtie National Park.

The Proposed Route

2008-09-23T07:45:00.001-07:00

View Larger Map

The adventure leaves from the vibrant city of San Francisco and heads towards Yosemite National Park and then south to the infamous Death Valley. After cycling through the Nevada desert, i will hit the flashing lights of Las Vagas and gamble my money away. The next highlights will be the Hoover Dam, Grand Canyon and then the state of New Mexico. From here the route is a little vague but i will be cruising through Texas, Louisiana, Alabama and Florida.

For me to complete this trip in time for Christmas and avoiding the snow(!) i will have to cycle approx 70-100 miles a day. Also, I have only just found out there are mountain passes as high as 3,343m that i have to cross!

I plan to update this blog as frequently as possible and feel free to leave any comments, although there are children following this blog so keep it clean!

Goodbye for now