Day 8 Panamint Springs, Death Valley

Stats:
Daily mileage: 113 (highest yet) Ride Time: 6hr 10
Avg speed: 18.27mph Total miles: 402

It was a cold night but the wind disappeared. I opened the tent to heat up my left over chilli bean and pasta and noticed the mountains behind me had been covered in a fresh layer of snow. I have since found out that the Tioga Pass that I went over a few days ago has been closed due to extreme weather and passed just at the right time.

I got myself a coffee and hit the road. It felt amazing, the tail wind allowed me to keep an average speed of 21 mph for 3 hours. For some of you less blessed with mathematics, that’s 63miles (100km) in three hours. Either way, it was brilliant riding.

The scenery was stunning. I was still cycling along the 395 through Owen’s valley and on one side I had a mountain range covered in cloud and on the other, a mountain range separating Death Valley. Although, I did have one moment of madness. As I was burning along I noticed an animal beside the road that looked like a dog from afar. As I drew closer, it became apparent it was not a dog, but a bloody wolf or coyote. It was happily sitting in the bike lane waiting for happy cyclist to munch on! With noting to throw at it I armed myself with my water bottle and stood up out of the saddle. About 20m away I started shouting in the hope I would scare it off but it was only until I sang American Pie at the top of my voice that it fled back into the bush!

That confirmed my lack of singing abilities! Very funny scenario now but it wasn’t at the time I can assure you. I arrived at Lone Pine at midday and found it a very bizarre town. People were walking around in wild west outfits with whips and everything. I stopped for some food and was informed by the waiter that there was a wild west weekend here and people came from all over the country to be there very own John Wayne for the day. Odd but very funky.

I stocked up on supplies to last me the next 50 miles into Panamint Springs. I knew there was more climbing involved but I was excited to get to Death Valley national park. I really felt the isolation once I turned off the 395 and prayed I would not have any problems. The scenery got even more dramatic. It ranged from canyons to desserts. The final 9 miles were downhill and spectacular. The colours in the rock were magical.

I got to camp and was given a pitch that is used for caravans. I broke 3 pegs trying to get them into the ground and then I gave up. I spoke to a neighbour who informed me the wind was strong again last night and might be repeated tonight. I decided to line my tent with the biggest rocks I could lift. That had to do the trick.

I went over to the bar and treated myself to a well earned litre glass of beer. I got taking to a bloke from Florida and we had a good chat about hiking in the area. As we were talking a couple walked through the door. These were the same people that were sitting behind me on the plane and also got the airport transfer bus to San Francisco city center. At the time, I jokingly told them I might bump into them along the route. Infact, we already did at Yosemite Village and again now in Death Valley. We all chatted and drank several more litres of beer.

I retired to my tent in my pissed state and decided to have a little campfire like everybody else. I searched numerous other fire pits for left over wood and got a great fire going. I sat there scoffing M&Ms admiring my handy work with the tent and feeling quite satisfied with my efforts for the day. Although, I avoided looking left as the moon outlined the 5000ft hill I have to pass in the morning! Bring it on…………