Day 26 Jayton, Kent, Texas

Stats
Daily mileage 111 Ride time 7hr 11min
Avg speed 15.41mph Total mileage 1680

Today I cycled and then cycled some more. The scenery was slightly rolling giving my legs a brief break. Nothing that exciting happened today until I got to a little town called Post. I went to the chamber of commerce, spoke to the ladies and jumped on a WiFi spot. Whilst I was there the judge of the town popped in and the two ladies introduced me to him. As I reached for his outstretched hand I distinctive smell appeared to leak from my armpit. I was rather embarrassed and swiftly pulled back my arm to shut off the smell. I guess those baby wipe showers just arent doing the trick.

I had to buy some cream for this ever changing rash down below. It was red yesterday but has now turned a little dark, perhaps even greenish!!

I got back on the road with about 30 or 50 miles left for the day. I was going to get to a rest area and decided what to do when I got there. My speed was good and I reached the spot in no time. I got off the bike and decided I would call it a day. Within about 15 mins I changed my mind and decided to head to Jayton. It was a gamble as this was a perfect place to camp. The next 20 miles also flew by and I nearly passed the town without realising.

It was deserted but I sore the doors flicker at the local library. The lights were off but the door was open. I stumbled upon a local school teacher and her students decorating the main hall for a big Halloween party tomorrow night. I introduced myself and asked if I could be of any assistance and in return advise me where I could camp for the night. I spent a couple of hours with them and the room was starting to take shape. It was a cool way to spend the evening and was nice to have some company. The teacher invited me to the school tomorrow but I have a big mileage day planned.

I followed her to the suggested camping spot but she started taking me off road. I learnt yesterday about the dangers that lurk off road and those pesty little pricks where back with vengeance. I removed at least 10 from my tyres and we decided to change the destination and moved to park next to a lake. I am praying I did not pick up a puncture from the excursion.
I set up the tent in the dark and relaxed for the night.
Total spent 9 bucks

Day 25 Brownfield, Texas

Stats
Daily mileage 96 Ride time 6hr 16min
Avg speed 15.28 mph Total mileage 1569

Today was my 12th consecutive day on the saddle. Granted, I have had a few easy days mixed in but I have covered just shy of 1000 miles. With the nights drawing in early I find myself asleep equally as early. As a result I am waking up during the night feel quite restless. It didn’t help with all the loud lorry whizzing past. At about 5am, I woke to the sound of coyotes. They were close and appeared to be calling to one another. I remember hearing a story in Africa where the hyenas screech to each other alerting them that there is food around. I was praying I was not the food. After all, I looked like a giant grub in my sleeping bag. I was afraid enough to sleep the next hour with my pen knife.

I crawled out of my tent a little later than I planned and had a baby wipe shower. My speed was good right from the off and I hoped it would continue throughout the day. With no breakfast, I planned to stop at Tatum some 30 miles away. It took less than 2 hours to arrive and I was ready to eat a horse. I went straight to the cooked section of the gas station and bought two breakfast fajitas. They were delicious and one was enough so I saved the other for lunch. The next place along route 380 was another 30 miles away so I judged the water accordingly.

I left New Mexico for the last time and entered Texas, the birthplace of Mr George W Bush. I stopped for some compulsory photos and inadvertently learnt a very careful lesson. On the side of the road there are thousands of goat heads. No, not real ones dummy! They are small spikes that are more than capable of puncturing tyres. I will take a picture of these little pricks tomorrow!

Before setting off I removed 3 of them from my tyres and aimed for my destination, Brownfield. I rocked up pretty earlier and had a good 3 hours of sunlight left. Unsure with what to do I popped into the chamber of commerce and enquired about camp grounds etc. One thing lead to another and she suggested I go to the free dinner they dish out to homeless people. Initially I thought against it but then I had nothing to loose and was quite intrigued about the ordeal. She also believed somebody might be able to put me up for the night.

I trotted around town and found the place. I knocked on the door and the lady told me that was yesterday and there was no food left. I was enquiring about everything from showers to somewhere I could crash. But she was not having any of it. I decided to head to the camp ground on the outskirts of town. It was perfect. They had water, electricity and best of all it was free. I have not seen any toilets but there are some big trees behind me.

With no dinner in my pannier bags I had to rely on my massive bag of M&Ms. Total spent today: 13 bucks

Day 24 Middle of nowhere, New Mexico

Stats
Daily mileage 43.6 Ride time 3hr 34min
Avg speed 12.17 mph Total mileage 1473

I decided that I would take today at a very pleasurable pace and enjoy it as much as I could. I had a lay in and went for my continental breakfast. I also decided I would challenge myself to see how long I could make 100 dollars last. That was my excuse to eat and drink as much as possible at breakfast. I got talking to a local about aliens and UFOs and was gob smacked at how much of a believer he is. It was amusing at first but then he wouldn’t stop talking and after about 20 minutes I had to get out of there. I tried standing up but that didn’t phase him so I had to say something to shut him up and leave. “I have such terrible trots this morning, I must dash to the toilet”, I said. It worked so well!
I packed up the bike and headed towards the UFO museum. It had to be done despite being so tacky. It was so cheesy but fascinating reading about the military cover up of the Roswell landing in 1947.

I spoke to some locals and confirmed my route of out town and they stated there is no where to get water for the next 80 miles. With this in mind I took an extra bottle and decided I would camp at a rest stop some 40 miles away. I figured, other cars would also stop there so I can ask them for water.

The road was straight and went on forever. I climbed over a hill and at the top I swear you could actually see the curvature of the earth. My mind was elsewhere all day and it wasn’t until I stopped I felt the pain in my ankle was back. I raised my seat this morning so I lowered it again. Hopefully that will ease the pressure tomorrow.

I got to the rest stop very early so I sat in the sunshine and read my book. As I hoped, there were plenty of people stopping so I was able to keep my water supply topped up. I left it to the last minute to erect my tent and then I sat there, eating my spaghetti watching a beautiful sunset.

I am camping about 20m from the road in a rest area which is not the safest place to be. I fear it will be a very restless nights sleep. Totally spent today: 9 bucks

Day 24 Roswell, New Mexico

Stats
Daily mileage 46.7 Ride time 3hr 18min
Avg speed 14.09 mph Total mileage 1429

I am writing this entry in a happy mood, but I have experienced every emotion today. I woke up this morning not knowing where the day would take me but I had my fingers crossed. I spoke to a different receptionist who confirmed the bike doc had definitely closed down, so I decided to cycle into town and speak to the chamber of commerce. I passed Walmart and decided I had nothing to loose by asking the bike department within the store. However, I was informed it was the mechanics day off. Typical.

I eased into town and noticed some bicycles in a car tyre shop. A bloke called Jimmy overheard me telling one of the mechanics I had broke a spoke. After a brief conversation, he suggested taking my bike to an old guy a few blocks away who builds and sells second hand bikes in his yard! We drove to this mans house and I knocked on the door. Unfortunately, he said he didn’t have the tool I needed and told me the closest bike shop was in Roswell, some 80 miles away. With no rail or coach link I was in trouble.

Jimmy chipped in and said he was actually going in that direction but only to Artesia, some 40 miles short of Roswell. I accepted his offer but made a quick phone call and checked the bike shop existed. I was not about to make the same mistake again! Jimmy was a fantastic bloke and had lived in Carlsbad his entire life and currently works on the oil fields. We shared some stories and before we knew it we were there. I took my stuff of the truck and said goodbye.

I loaded my bike up and noticed I left a bungee strap in the truck and that my front tyre had gone flat again. Thoroughly cheesed off, I had no choice but to get to the bike shop as quick as I could. I pumped up the tyre and hit the road. I felt myself constantly looking at the rear wheel buckling on every revolution and the flat front tyre.

After two and half hours I finally got to my destination and started looking for the bike shop. I asked a local who stated I had to go left and it was about 7 blocks away. I turned left as instructed and asked the next person I saw for more direction. I have learnt that you have to ask at least 3 people and take an average on what they say and I am so glad I did. The second man told me it was literally around the corner, not 7 blocks away!

I collapsed into the bike shop and the relief just lifted of my shoulders. I sat in the chair and watched Steve get to work on my bike. With all my problems sorted I popped into the tourist information for some advice. The ladies there were incredibly helpful with one of them giving me 5 bucks for the adventure. I then check into another cheap motel. I couldn’t pass through Roswell and not visit the UFO museum so I decided I would visit it in the morning.

Today has been an emotional day but I feel as though things are looking up and am ready to get this show back on the road. Before I forget, I must mention about this strange rash I am getting down below. Watch this space!

Day 23 Carlsbad, New Mexico

Stats

Daily mileage 84 Ride time 6hr 51min Avg speed 12.27 mph Total mileage 1383

It was a very early start and it felt good. I thanked my lovely host and slowly plodded into, through and out of El Paso. The bike felt good but my ankle was still a little sore.

I eventually got on the open road and passed a border control checkpoint. I topped up with water as this would be the last place I could for about 50 miles. The wind was relentless and I had to stop and have a break. I managed to take a photo of one of the hundreds of crickets/locust on the side of the road. Depsite trying my hardest, I have squashed so many and they make a really loud crunch sound when you ride over them!

As I got back on the bike, I noticed the front tyre was flat again. I was really cheesed off as I changed it only two days ago. I decided there must be a problem with the rim and upon inspection I think I found a slight lump under the rim tape. I decided I must get to a bike shop and have a professional look at it. I was informed there was bike shop in Carlsbad, some 150 miles away.

Once over a small mountain pass, the land transformed into a vast flat plain. There was no escape from the wind so I put my head down and watched the miles trickle down. I was truly in the middle of nowhere with no mobile reception. Thoroughly tired and 84 miles down, my mobile kicked into life. As I reached for my phone I heard a very distinct snap from my rear wheel. I looked down and noticed the wheel was no longer running smoothly. It had a rhythmic pulsing motion which meant one thing, a broken spoke. I got off my bike and didn’t know what to do. I have spare spokes but I needed a cassette removal tool. It was getting late and I had very little water left.

I really didn’t know what to do. I thought about texting my hosts from last night to come and pick me up but I lost reception. Besides, I really didn’t want to ask them to do that. I sat there for about 10 mins trying to decide what to do. I car happened to pull up about 100m away so I walked over to them not really knowing what I was going to say. I guess I was hoping the driver was a bike mechanic! He said he couldn’t help me so I made a decision to get on the bike and cycle 20 miles to a 2 house town called Salt Flat.

Within about 5 mins the same car stopped in front of me and asked if I wanted a lift to Carlsbad, some 100 miles away. He stated there was a bike shop there. I reluctantly accepted his offer and was annoyed with myself that I would miss this section of the road. I wanted to say I cycled all the way across but now I have missed a 100 mile section. On the other hand I could have done serious damage to the bike, wheel and tyre if I continued.

I checked into a motel on the out skirts of Carlsbad and spoke to the receptionist about bike shops in town. He stated with great conviction that the shops have closed done and there were no longer there. I went to the room feeling down and thought about my options. I will make some phone calls in the morning but if I cant find a bike shop, I will have to either hitch another ride to Roswell or cycle 80 miles to Hobbs.

I logged onto the internet and found some you tube videos of how to fix spokes and had a go. I removed the tyre, rim tape and spoke. I then got to the point where I realised I didn’t have the tool to proceed. I replaced to parts and made a hash of it. I sat on the bed thoroughly annoyed and dejected.

I had been really looking forward to the ride from El Paso to Carlsbad because I was planning on visiting the famous caverns. At sunset the thousands of bats cyclone out of the cave which is supposed to be very impressive. Now, I am 20 miles passed the caverns and if I cant get the bike fixed tomorrow I will have to miss out on them. Not good..aaaggggghhhhhhh!

Day 22 el Paso

The route so far...

Stats
Daily mileage 40.67 Ride time 2hr 42min
Avg speed 15 mph Total mileage 1298

I spoke to my http://www.warmshower.org/ host last night and the plan was to set off at similar times in the morning and would meet along route 28. I decided to go to the diner and had a lovely breakfast consisting of pancakes and bacon. Whilst sitting there, I realised that Texas was an hour different to the clock I had been working by. I was already slightly late in leaving and this meant my hosts had left along time ago. I have not been paying attention to the physical time in the last 3 weeks, I have been using the sun as my guide.

I got on the bike pronto and cycled like the wind. Within in about 10 miles, I bumped into my host and they escorted me back to their home town, El Paso. It was great to have some company and the miles ticked past quicker than even before. As we were cycling down the road I noticed another tourer, named Scott, ahead with his camera out posing to take a photo of me. He even shouted “keep going kris”. My hosts informed me that they stopped him earlier thinking I was him. We all joined together and cycled into town and had lunch together. Scott is also a copper from Phoenix and had been on the road for 7 days but due to his work commitment was finishing today.

We ate at a Mexican joint and said our goodbyes to Scott. My hosts showed me into their house and told me to make myself at home. I spent the afternoon chilling and resting my sore ankle. In the evening I watched a film I had been dying to watch for sometime. It was called “Into the Wild”. I could see some serious similarities between me and the main character.

For a long time now, I have been wanting to write about my desire to do these things and were I get this free spirit attitude from. I am not sure this public blog is the best way to express some of these deep thoughts because sometimes I forget who is reading this. Documenting my beliefs in such a way has been a great way of looking inside myself and deciding what is important at the present time. On the other hand I guess some or my blog readers simply wont give a shit. But I am finding it intriguing to understand why I have to do these things.

I guess it comes down to having just one life and I plan to grasp every opportunity I can. Sure, that means I have to make compromises but without taking a chance and experiencing something new, I cant grow as a person. This world is a beautiful place but how can I see that when I have to go to work Monday to Friday and then spending the weekend hung over. I have had to make sacrifices to do this trip. For example, a university friend has just got married last week and I was unable to attend it. Understandably, he was upset when I told him I could not go and I was too, but I am not simply going on a one week holiday to Ibiza. I am fulfilling a dream of mine and although it was a though decision, I am positive it was the right one. Sure, I know some folks wont see it that way and they are of course they are entitled to their opinion but I guess I am different. Is it selfish, maybe!?!

I know people wonder how I can afford to do all these things but it comes down to priorities. I am happy without having all the latest fashion, owning the fastest car and having the biggest house. Instead, I save that money and spend it on living my dream. I feel most alive when I am out in the middle of nowhere as opposed the rat race of the London life. Will this attitude last forever, probably not. Maybe, happiness is real when shared!

I feel as though I could go on for a lot longer and perhaps I will another day but for now I shall say goodnight. Goodnight.
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Day 21 Las Cruces

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Stats
Daily mileage 122 Ride time 7hr 33min
Avg speed 16.05mph Total mileage 1258

Breakfast was served at McDonalds nice and early so I checked out my room at the first sign of light and relaxed with my coffee and egg McMuffin. There was not a cloud in the sky but the air was extremely cold. I approached the interstate and, to my joy, saw no sign prohibiting bicycles.

The road was quiet and the wind was belting in my ear tell me this was going to be a good day. I looked around and admired the flags, trees and bushes being blown in the direction I was heading. The road condition was good and I soon crossed the continental divide. This felt quite a milestone for me. The continental divide is the point in the states that when on the East side, all the Rivers run towards the Pacific Coast and when on the West side, the water runs towards the Atlantic Ocean.

I saw my first Rattle Snake but fortunately it had been flattened by a vehicle! About 10 miles after that I noticed a vehicle had pulled over into the hard shoulder. I initially thought it was the police and I was mentally preparing a cock and bull story about not knowing the cycling laws. Instead, it was this family who said to me “Are you that guy cycling across the states”. I replied “yes, how did you know”. They had heard it over the radio but obviously got me mixed up with someone else. In an amazing moment of generosity, they gave me 40 bucks. I thanked them profusely and was so grateful.

The original plan was to exit the freeway after 25 miles but that meant going perpendicular to the wind. I decided to stick on the freeway for another 31 miles as the riding was so much fun. The miles ticked by like the second hand on a watch. I reached Deming and had another McDonalds but this time it was big burger and fries. I made a decision to continue along the freeway but for the next 35 miles I had the opportunity to cycle on a quiet road beside it.
I devoured the burger and returned to my bike. I noticed the front wheel was looking flat. I really could not be arsed to change a tyre so I went to a gas station and put some more air in it. It was only a slow puncture after all.

I hadn’t been paying attention to my speedo but I had already done 100 miles and the motels were still another 20 miles away. I felt tired all of a sudden and wanted to call it a day. Eventually, I reached my destination and checked into the first motel I saw. It was only 30 bucks so I took it. I changed my tyre and spent the evening watching TV.

Day 20 Lordsburg, New Mexico

Stats
Daily mileage 73 Ride time 6hr 15min
Avg speed 11.73mph Total mileage 1136

I am sitting in a stink hole of a room writing this blog. For 20 bucks I am not expecting the Hilton but I was hoping for a bed. But then again, even if it did have one I still wouldn’t use it as I would be too afraid of being eaten alive by fleas. Instead, I have opened my roll matt and sleeping bag and will crash on the floor. The luxury of living on the road.

With my ankle still very sore, I stopped after 11 miles and lowered the saddle. I thought that reducing the toe extension might elevate the strain and I also altered my foot position so the pedal was underneath the arch instead of the toes. This definitely helped but it was very inefficient and was putting more strain on my knees.

The terrain was flat and you could see all around you for miles and miles. It was a great feeling not being able to see any civilisation and barely have any traffic on the road. The cacti have been replaced with small bushes and on all the horizons are large mountain ranges. I loved it.

I did come across some agro drivers today though. I have been cycling on the road instead of the hard shoulder mainly because the hard shoulder is littered with rubble, thorns, bolts, glass and holes. This appear to anger motorist and who began beeping their horn at me and that really really pissed me off. My middle finger would shoot up in lightening fashion and a yell along the lines of “you f*****g p***k what is your f*****g problem you a**hole” would come screaming out my mouth. They never heard but it made me feel ten times better. I usually got a arm movement back indicating to me that there is a hard shoulder. I would then frantically wave back at them to pull over so we could discuss this like true gentlemen. If there were oncoming cars then I do pull into the hard shoulder but when the road is completely empty they can suck my balls!

I arrived at my destination about 1600hrs and I didn’t expect it to be so run down. There is a distinct Mexican feel to this neighbourhood and after speaking to the motel owner she warned me to be careful on the border road I am planning to take. It is clear to see that immigration and border control is on high alert as there are vehicles patrolling everywhere. The motel owner said expect to see tanks by the side of the road tomorrow. I cant work out whether she is serious or not. We shall find out.

I went to the supermarket and bought some goodies and scouted my route out of town. I have to go on the motorway for about 25 miles and according to the owner bicycles are forbidden from riding on the interstate. I have no other choice but to brave it and take the consequences.
I apologise for the lack of photos again and I promise to try harder tomorrow. Sorry.

Day 19 Safford, Arizona

Stats
Daily mileage 87 Ride time 6hr 15min
Avg speed 13.89mph Total mileage 1063

I woke up this morning hoping my ankle enjoyed the early finish yesterday as much as I did. I went for breakfast but didn’t feel like stuffing my face. I ate responsibly and returned to my room and to have another shower. In case you are all wondering, my improved hygiene regime has eradicated those nasty little boils in my private region.

Today was a bizarre one. My Achilles had not improved and the pain was spreading around the ankle. I decided to take it real easy but I was still flying along. Mentally I was somewhere else all day. I thought about everything from Christmas presents to what adventure I want to do next. The main thought was regarding my career. I am pretty sure I do not want to go back to the police but it annoys me that I had to wait several years to get in and then discover its not for me. The question is, what do I do? Send your answers on a postcard!

I travelled nearly 90 miles but can hardly recall anything. I have noticed they are harvesting a lot of cotton in this region. However, this was due to a machine was cutting the plant and parts of the cotton were floating in the air and getting stuck in my beard!

I got to Safford and enquired at a few a hotels for a nights sleep. It was starting to annoy that I was even considering paying another 60 bucks for a room. I said right from the beginning that I would be camping for the majority of this trip and here I find myself looking for another room. It was still early and I decided to find a RV park instead. I stopped at the local tourist information and the lady was a dream. She rang around the parks and found a campsite for me for 5 bucks. She then produced an apple and a variety of cereal bars for me to devour.

I got to my campsite and sun baked for an hour before erecting my tent and winding down for the evening. I cooked myself some super noodles and made a hot chocolate, delicious. I could not believe this was only my third time I had used my cooker.

When I left Vegas I set myself two goals and that was to cycle 500 miles and pass through Arizona in seven days. It looks as though I am on course for both predications. In fact, I may have cycled about 550 miles in seven days if everything goes according to plan tomorrow.

I just remember something that I saw today. My very first sightings of a racoon and a skunk, albeit they were dead on the side of the road. I must digress one moment. Since I had my bike accident a year my sinuses are constantly blocked. However, when you hover over such road kill it was amazing how quickly it cleared the nostrils! Forget Sinex, they need to bottle the smell of rotting flesh in the boiling heat! Good night chums!

Day 18 Miami, Arizona

Stats
Daily mileage 36 Ride time 3hr 20min
Avg speed 10.63mph Total mileage 976

I woke up to the hideous sound of my alarm and glad to have not been eaten alive. Although my mouth was dry as a bone and a reached for the water bottles for any remaining droplets left. My head was pounding but my legs felt good. I packed up swiftly and got on the road. I was hoping to make the next town within the hour but due to the headwind it took 90mins. I have to admit that at one point I questioned myself about drinking my own urine! I remember from my school days that it is okay to drink it a couple of times before it gets too toxic. Fortunately, there was an end in sight and I didn’t have to go to such an extreme.

Yesterdays effort took more out of me than I thought. My right Achilles heel was in agony on every revolution. I had this problem whilst cycling across OZ several years ago and rest was the only solution. I made an executive decision to finish very early, do some laundry and relax for the afternoon. After all, I had cycled 360miles in 4 days and needed to chill.

I happened to stop in a place called Miami, unfortunately not the one in Florida. I checked into a relatively cheap hotel and was happy with my decision. Sorry to bore you with the details but I thought I would let you know how I am keeping the blog so up to date. Unlike on our road to Istanbul trip we were having to locate a internet café everyday and spending an hour updating the blog. Due to the lack of sun light hours, I knew I would not have that luxury and decided on buying a very tiny travel laptop. Thus allowing me to write the diary in the evening and when I come across somewhere with Wi-Fi, I would cheekily jump onto an unsecured network and upload the blog/photos. I also have skype, which allows me to make very cheap international calls. I have been astounded by how available Wi-Fi is and how difficult it has been to get mobile phone coverage.

In fact, I was thinking today, that my laptop will be what “Wilson” the volleyball was to Tom Hanks in Castaway. It has been my companion, my enemy and outlet. I know it will be a big drag having to write stuff at the end of the day but on the other hand I will be grateful for it afterwards. Although, if I start dancing around a fire with lappy (my laptops name) in hand I know its time to check myself into a nut clinic.

Day 17 Florence Junction, Arizona

Stats
Daily mileage 115 (new highest) Ride time 7hr 56min
Avg speed 14.50mph Total mileage 940

I treated myself to another shower this morning and was on the road by 0745hrs. I stopped almost instantly and bought myself a coffee and muffin. The wind looked good and I was informed it was a flat ride into Phoenix. They were right. The road was so straight I could follow it into the horizon until it turned into a dot. It was incredible and reminded me of cycling across Oz.

The landscape has changed dramatically in the last few days. The wilderness is covered in a variety of cacti. I have been wanting to see theses ever since I began this adventure. The traffic started to increase as I approached the outskirts of Phoenix. I made a decision to by pass the city by going as far south and then east as possible. I was hoping to bump into a bike shop along the way as I only have one spare inner tube left.

The road east went on forever. Including a few stops, it took me approximately 5 hours to pass the city. It didn’t help by the amount of frigging traffic lights but nevertheless it a massive sprawl of a city. 4 o clock came and I still felt good and decided to push on to a rest area at a junction 16 miles out the city. The sun came down so quickly but I still managed to cycle fast, despite having cycled 100 miles already.

The rest areas have been well marked on my maps and extremely reliable. But not this time. With no water remaining and nothing in sight I decided to find somewhere to wild camp. I scouted the ground and found a patch in a disused garage forecourt. There are several large holes in the ground that could be inhabited by spiders or scorpions. Not that I know anything about rattlesnakes, but this looks like an ideal spot for them too. I erected my tent in lightening fashion and jump in it for cover. As I lay inside my tent, I hear 5 shotgun shots echo around the hills. They sounded pretty close. I am not so worried about the gunmen, more about what they are shooting! Nothing that will get me I hope.

I am so thirsty. I should have been more prepared and had an emergency supply of water. Its going to be 18 miles in the morning before I come across a water supply. I must stop writing about it as it making more thirsty!

I was told today that I will be interviewed by the sexy Kate Thornton when I fly back into Heathrow airport as apart of a new series they are filming. In that case, I am definitely going to keep the beard as it adds to the authenticity of the journey!

I have added a video that I have edited using my mobile phone, hence the cheesy music over the top! Hope you enjoy it.

Day 16 Highway 93 Wickenburg, Arizona

Stats

Daily mileage 79 Ride time 6hr 35min
Avg speed 11.97mph total mileage 825

I woke up out of my dream world and sat forward. I felt an instant sharp pain on my bum cheek. I decided to head for the shower and check it out. I got into position that was most likely in the book of karma sutra and identified several very large boils. Considering I am wearing the same pair of cycling shorts day in day out I guess I should expect this. Its not as grim as you think as they are being wiped with baby wipes everyday! Whilst we are talking about hygiene, I decided to wear a fresh pair of socks today. I have warn the other ones inside out and they are starting to become rigid!

I went back to my tent and noticed the massive American flag was blowing ever so softly in my direction. I smiled and thought to myself “about time”. As I approached my bike I noticed the rear tyre was flat and upon examination I had collect a staple that had pierced the tyre. A quick change of inner tubes saw to the problem and I then packed away. I was very conscience of the water situation today so I went to the café and purchased a coffee and drank lots of water. At 0830 I got on my bike with a total of 4 litres to cover 75 miles. I took a glance at the flag and noticed the wind had changed and began slapping me in the face. I really didn’t want a tough day because of the food and water situation.

The roads were hilly and the temperature was in the 90s by 1000am. The only rest bite from the wind was when the cars and trucks passed me at 65mph. It was a dangerous game but the wind was making it incredible hard. I continued cycling until I hit the wall. My legs were weak and I was shaking from head to toe. I had to stop and eat something. By pure coincidence, a car pulled over because something came loose on their trailer. I needed water badly and they happily obliged.

I got back on the bike and battled against the wind. I couldn’t sit still, the saddle was becoming painful and my mind was weak. The only thing I could focus on was the tumble weed beside me being bent over by the wind. If only it was blowing the other way I would be flying along. Cycling is so fickle!

I must mention about the vehicles over here. In general they are simply bigger and appear to be a status symbol of some sort. A recreational vehicle (massive campervan) passed me today. It was the size of a coach and had a moped on the back. It was also pulling a 4wd truck that had a quad bike in its trunk. I was gob smacked. I don’t get it. Why do they need all that to go camping. Insane, I tell you!

At 1600 I reached the first town I had seen since this morning and was somewhat relieved. I went to an RV park but the manager was an obnoxious idiot and was not willing to help me. Thoroughly pissed off, I decided to find a cheap hotel and chill for the rest of the day. I found one for 40 dollars and checked in.

I studied the maps and predict some more hard riding for the next 2 weeks and then I will be on the flat ground. For me to reach Florida for my flight home I need to do about 500 miles a week. If the winds continues whacking me around the chops then I will struggle to reach my target.
As you may have noticed, the photos for the past few days have been pretty rubbish. Once again, I have become obsessed with maximising my ride time and haven’t wanted to stop and get my camera out. I will try and take more pictures tomorrow.

This is my beard after 20 days of growth! Lets see it mature over this trip. If I capture any bugs in their I will take photo evidence for y’all.

Day 15 Highway 93 Wikieup, Arizona

Stats
Daily mileage 99 Ride time 7hr 24min
Avg speed 13.39mph total mileage 746

I slept really well and woke up as the sun came up. I popped into the bar for a coffee and was on the road by 0730hrs. The wind was smacking me in the face as I plodded along. I had 45 miles to go before I could get some food and water. The terrain was flat and I tried to put my mind elsewhere and away from the throbbing pain in my left knee.

I stopped after an hour to munch on some snacks I had in my bag and then put it in a 150min stint on the saddle. It felt good to get to Kingman but I was very aware that the next leg meant I had to ride on the motorway for 18miles. I didn’t stop for long as I knew I had another 50miles to my destination. The route out of Kingman was on the famous route 66. After a brief spell I joined the motorway. The hard shoulder was littered in glass and pebbles and I was thinking this would be a terrible place to break down.

The heat was insane and I sweated buckets. I have a line of spots forming across my forehead where my helmet rubs. I also have a line of spots forming elsewhere but I shall spare you the details for once!

Eventually I turned off the motorway and begun heading south on the 93. The road was very narrow and there was no hard shoulder. The traffic was thick but there was no alternative route. I kept a close eye on my mirror and wished the miles would tick away quicker. I drank my water sparingly but soon ran out. The more I thought about water the worse it got.

I had been praying all day that there would be a camp at Wikieup and to my delight there was. My speedo read 99miles which irritated me a bit but I was so desperate for a drink I didn’t care. I had a glorious shower and went to the restaurant for a pizza. I bought a 16inch and devoured most of it. The remaining is in the box under my roll matt waiting for breakfast time. I cant leave it outside in case the ants get to it!

I got speaking to the owner who informed me that there was nothing for the first 72 miles tomorrow. I have decided I will down lots of liquids for breakfast and take an extra 1.5l of water. I should really take an extra 3l but I don’t want to carry the weight. Decisions, decisions…..

Day 14 Highway 93 South of Hoover Dam, Arizona

Stats

Daily mileage 67 Ride time 5hr 15min
Avg speed 12.38mph total mileage 647

Alarm rang at 0600hrs and I began packing my gear. Kevin and I had oats and coffee for breakfast and we decided to pop to Wal-Mart for some groceries. When I returned home last night I noticed I had developed a flat tyre so I fixed that before leaving the house.

I thanked Kevin profusely for his hospitality and eventually got on the road by 1030. I had no idea where I was going to end up tonight as the environment will be very baron. It took about 2 hours to get out of Vegas and I had to ride on my first motorway, albeit brief. The ride to the Hoover Dam was congested and hilly. I passed a cycle race that was about to start in Boulder City and was very tempted to join in. I could tell I was feeling fitter now than when I first left 2 weeks ago.

The main road actually passes over the Dam and I took some more dam photos! There were tourist everywhere and many of them were taking photos of me. Lots of people were asking what I am doing and when they reply “that’s a long way to Florida son” I shrug my shoulders as if to say no problem In truth, I cant wait for the day when people reply “not far now son”.

With the heat hitting low 90F I was running out of water very fast. There was nothing between the Dam and a bar some 30 miles away, so I took the opportunity to fill up when I could see some tourist.

With the sun setting around 1730hrs, I was hoping that bar would let me camp there. I rocked up with little sunlight left and they showed me a spot in front of someone’s trailer. I went to the bar with all my belongs as I didn’t trust my stuff around there. Most of the folk could barely string a sentence together, but the swear words were easy to distinguish. I had a few beers and snuck away. I had a bad feeling they would transform into creatures after midnight and I didn’t fancy being on the menu!

I retired back to the tent and the owner of the trailer came out. Couldn’t understand a thing apart from Vietnam War. Hopefully, my bike and I am still around in the morning. I am setting my alarm early tomorrow, wonder why!!

Day 13 Las Vegas, Nevada

I woke up early and got the bus to the strip. I was there a little early but that was fine as I was not too sure where I had to meet the tour bus. It all ran like clock work and we began the 250 mile drive to the canyon. We briefly stopped off at the Hoover Dam to take some photos and then herded back onto the bus. I tried not to look out the window for the next 100 miles as I am doing the same stretch tomorrow. I did noticed the road was busy and, in parts, there is no hard shoulder.

We stopped for another buffet lunch and I ate until I popped. I continued my usually routine of going straight to the loo to relieve the extra weight! After another long drive we finally made it to the canyon. I have heard mixed reviews about the grand canyon and the fact that I got up at 0500hrs and only just arrived at 1450hrs I was hoping to not be disappointed. It was terrific, the pure grandeur was out of this world and I was sucking in immediately. We only had 90mins to enjoy the sight but that did not stop me hiking along the ridge from Mather Point to Yavapai Observation Station.

The sunlight demonstrated a dazzling variety of colourful rock layers, impressive buttes and shadowed side canyons. The Grand Canyon is the canyon against which all other canyons are compared.

Back on the road tomorrow………..bring it on!

Day 12 Las Vegas, Nevada

Kevin and I decided to head to the Orleans Casino hotel for a buffet breakfast. I quickly went to the loo to make myself as empty as possible and we took a bus to our destination. The casino was not on the main strip but nevertheless it was still impressive. This was my first experience of a Las Vegas casino and it was just full of a variety of slot machines and other ways inexperienced gamblers could burn their money. The breakfast hall was simply massive and had everything on offer and I mean everything. Cake, fruit, Mexican breaky, French breaky, American breaky, to name but a few.

We spent about 90 mins eating and chatting and decided that my priority for the day were to get some maps and organise a tour to the Grand Canyon. This will allow me to head directly south east from Vegas and avoid the high mountains and inevitable bad weather with it. The plan now is to head towards Phoenix and then along the Mexican border allowing me to stay as south as possible. The disadvantage of this is that I will not be able visit Bryce and Zion National Park, however I always knew the weather would be a dominant factor on this trip.

For the first part of the trip I had been using AAA maps that you can get for free if you are a member. I headed to the local depot with my fingers crossed that I could have some more as I am not a member. I spoke to the lady at the counter who initially really wasn’t playing ball. “No sir, if you are not a member you can not have them and we don’t sell them.” she kept repeating. I discussed buying a membership but she said I had to have an American address and then I told her I would buy it for my friend but he didn’t have a car which seemed to be a problem (AAA is an automobile association). I asked her to cut me some slack and repeated what I am doing and the fact I was doing by bicycle. With a but of persistence she said she would go speak to the manager who later joined me. Another quick explanation, she happily helped me and gave me enough maps to get me from Vegas to Florida! Thank you AAA.

I returned back to the house and after lots of shopping around I purchased a tour for the Grand Canyon departing a t 0625hrs tomorrow. With all my stuff completed, I trotted into the heart of Vegas and experience the so called paradise. I got there in the daylight and it was packed and I wasn’t feeling the vibe. It seemed so over the top from the billion dollar casino halls to the line of Mexicans handing out calling cards advertising women to your door in 20 mins! It was a far cry from the isolation I had experienced over the last 10 days.

I grabbed some coffee and people watched as the sun dropped. I wanted to watch some of the free shows on along the strip. The first was the Sirens Pirate show outside Treasure Island hotel/casino. By 1900hrs a massive crowd had formed and the show got underway. In short, there were two pirate ships opposite each other. One being occupied by beautiful scantly clad ass and the other by macho dudes. With lots of dancing, music and pyrotechnics the show climaxed with one boat sinking into the water and the women ruling the world. As cheesy as it was I actually enjoyed it.

Next stop was the Freemont St Experience located in downtown at the other end of the strip. I got off the bus, heard lots of cheering and realised the 6 min show had just finished and the next was in another hour. I soaked up the vibe of various casinos along the street and grabbed myself a beer. At the stroke of the hour the Freemont Experience begun. This street is enclosed by a roof several 100 meters long that is covered in thousands of light bulbs. The results is a massive TV with an explosion of light and music that shows carefully choreographed images. The show is different every hour but mine was to the music “American Pie” and the animation was awesome. You couldn’t help just looking up with your mouth open in amazement. I pulled myself together when I noticed a tap in my toes and a slight swagger in the hips! Old folks do that! Vegas was starting to infect me and the vibe was exciting and so different to anywhere else on earth.

The final stop was the fountain display outside the Bellagio Casino. I had seen this one briefly in the movies and didn’t think I would be that impressed. Boy, how wrong could I be. Every 15mins a song is blasted out into the street and the sprinklers get to work in time with the music. The jets of water were being blasted in the air as high as 80meters. I enjoyed it so much I stuck around for a few more displays.

It was starting to get late so I headed back to the bus stop via Caesars Palace casino. I had a flutter on the slots and walked through the shopping mall. The ceiling is painted in the design of the sky and you could easily loose track of time but that is obviously their intention! I got in around midnight and went straight to sleep as I had to be up in 5 hours. Night!

Day 11 Las Vegas, Nevada

Stats
Daily mileage 58 Ride time 4hr 55min
Avg speed 11.76mph Total Mileage 580

I woke up with the aim to eat as much food as possible. I strategically chose clothes with lots of pockets so I was my own human doggy bag. I got to the buffet and was slightly disappointed, however I didn’t let that stop me. Overall, I ate 2 bowls of cereal, a large plate of scrambled egg, 3 sausage, fried potatoes, an apple, a yogurt, a Danish bun, a muffin, 2 coffees, 2 hot chocolates and 2 orange juices. I rolled back to my room and sat on the toilet for awhile in the hope that I wouldn’t have to carry all that weight up the 5494ft mountain.

I got in on the road and the wind had died down. I topped up with water and more food because there was nothing for the next 43 miles and the sun rays were beating down. The pass was tough and never ending but 3 hours later I got to the peak and stopped at mountain spring saloon. I got chatting to the owner who offered me a beer and we sat in the glorious sun.

An hour passed and I decided to leave and begin the decent into Las Vegas. I navigated my way through the suburbs to my host house. Kevin was surprised to see me as he had not been receiving my emails but invited me in nevertheless. We chatted somewhat about possible routes to take and some of his awesome adventures. One being a 2800 mile walk across the continental divide that passes from Mexico through the US, up to Canada. After an awesome dinner, I retired to bed and pondered my options.

Day 10 Pahrump, Nevada

Stats
Daily mileage 64 Ride time 6hr 13min
Avg speed 10.26mph total mileage 522

I ignored my alarm several times this morning and refused to get out of my sleeping bag. Eventually, my disciplined hat came on and I sprung into action. I made a decision to exit Death Valley from an alternative point as I was concerned for the 70 miles without food or water and two mountain passed I would have faced. This did annoy me as it meant missing out on Badwater point, the lowest point in America, and it was supposed to be a spectacular ride.

The wind was back with a vengeance and was in my face for the first 5 miles. I stuck on my ipod and tried to ignore the pain until a loud sound was rhythmically resonating around me. To my horror I worked out the sound was coming from my bike. The last thing I wanted to do was break down in Death Valley. I had visions of my skeleton lying on the side of the road after being pecked to death by vulchers. Fortunately, it was only a screw that had come loose on the mudguard but it did require me to remove everything off of the bike.

After 3 hours I had climbed the pass and was at Death Valley junction. I popped into the hotel for some sandwiches that was advertised on the side of the road. They were actually frozen and required microwaving before I could eat them! I was in pain, tired and fed up of the strong head wind. I was really considering calling it a day but that would have meant a massive effort to get to Las Vegas tomorrow. I slapped myself around the face and told myself to get on with it. A bought a frozen sandwich to go and put my head down hit the road.

Within a few miles I had left my first state and crossed into Nevada. The next 25miles was uneventfully and the isolation really hit me. All I could see was a vast expanse of nothingness. I made a decision that when I get to my destination I would treat myself to a hotel.

I have become very preoccupied with time, distance and the desire to keep going on. I am constantly working out the time it will take to get to my goals and feel guilty if I stop to eat. It keeps coming back to efficiency, so much so I am becoming obsessed with wasting time. I must stop this because it making me push harder then my body is currently capable off.

At approx 1730hrs I checked into a Best Western hotel and reluctantly paid the extortionate price. The lady wasn’t budging on the room rate and almost laughed at my haggling attempt. I thought to myself, you wait until that buffet breakfast I am going to eat so much of the food you will have to cart me out!

I went to my room and ran the bath and made a coffee. I was not going to get out of that bath until my fingers went wrinkly. I rigged up my laptop so I could watch a movie from the bath and felt in heaven. The colour of the bath water looked like a sewer once I got out. I spent the next few hours typing away on the internet naked so all my bits could heal themselves. On that lovely thought I shall say goodnight….

Day 9 Furnace Creek, Death Valley

Stats:
Daily mileage: 56 Ride Time: 4hr 36
Avg speed: 12.15mph Total miles: 458

Oh my god my head really hurt this morning. My beer to food ratio was severely one sided last night and I felt rough before the day had even started. Just the right preparation to climb a 5000ft mountain!

I went back to the bar and had a greasy omelette and vast amounts of coffee. I took it casually as I didn’t plan on it being a long day in the saddle but I was aware of trying to cross the pass in the midday sun.

Severely dehydrated, I hit the road and was chugging up the hill almost instantly. A motorist pulled over and offered me a top up on the liquids which I happily obliged. The wind was so strong and the road was so steep, my speed was at a constant 4mph. I learnt something about myself on that uphill section, I have incredible balance. To cycle at such a slow speed requires great skill not to fall over side ways!

I calculated the pass would take me a little over 2 hours to reach the top and I felt every second of it. The temperature of the wind was piercingly cold but there was nothing I could do. I eventually got to the top and was able to see the heart of Death Valley. I wrapped up with my woolly hat and bandana to cover my cracked lips and sore nose. The descent was awesome, I didn’t pedal for about 9 miles. I just sat on the saddle and admired the view whilst adjusting to the temperature change as I decreased in elevation.

I reached Stone Pipe Well, were I had originally planed on camping. I spoke to the park ranger, who stated the camping doesn’t open until the 15th Oct. She told me I would have to go to Furnace Creek, which was only 30 min drive. I looked at her and thought does this bike look like a car?!? But that isn’t the first time people have given me distance markers in terms of car travelling time. The other day a lady told me my selected destination would take 40 mins to drive and 50 mins to cycle. Bearing in mind the road was straight with a speed limit of 55mph, I thought this lady really doesn’t cycle!!

Anyway I digress, I bought some food and water and got back on the road. I passed some random sand dunes and made good time on the bike. Mentally, I was drained and didn’t know where I was at. The temperature was in the high 80’s and I wanted to get out of the sun. My head pounded from the beer the previous night and the physical exertion from this morning. I eventually arrived at the camp and decided to give my bike a spring clean. I ate a pot noodle for dinner and planned my route to Las Vegas.

Day 8 Panamint Springs, Death Valley

Stats:
Daily mileage: 113 (highest yet) Ride Time: 6hr 10
Avg speed: 18.27mph Total miles: 402

It was a cold night but the wind disappeared. I opened the tent to heat up my left over chilli bean and pasta and noticed the mountains behind me had been covered in a fresh layer of snow. I have since found out that the Tioga Pass that I went over a few days ago has been closed due to extreme weather and passed just at the right time.

I got myself a coffee and hit the road. It felt amazing, the tail wind allowed me to keep an average speed of 21 mph for 3 hours. For some of you less blessed with mathematics, that’s 63miles (100km) in three hours. Either way, it was brilliant riding.

The scenery was stunning. I was still cycling along the 395 through Owen’s valley and on one side I had a mountain range covered in cloud and on the other, a mountain range separating Death Valley. Although, I did have one moment of madness. As I was burning along I noticed an animal beside the road that looked like a dog from afar. As I drew closer, it became apparent it was not a dog, but a bloody wolf or coyote. It was happily sitting in the bike lane waiting for happy cyclist to munch on! With noting to throw at it I armed myself with my water bottle and stood up out of the saddle. About 20m away I started shouting in the hope I would scare it off but it was only until I sang American Pie at the top of my voice that it fled back into the bush!

That confirmed my lack of singing abilities! Very funny scenario now but it wasn’t at the time I can assure you. I arrived at Lone Pine at midday and found it a very bizarre town. People were walking around in wild west outfits with whips and everything. I stopped for some food and was informed by the waiter that there was a wild west weekend here and people came from all over the country to be there very own John Wayne for the day. Odd but very funky.

I stocked up on supplies to last me the next 50 miles into Panamint Springs. I knew there was more climbing involved but I was excited to get to Death Valley national park. I really felt the isolation once I turned off the 395 and prayed I would not have any problems. The scenery got even more dramatic. It ranged from canyons to desserts. The final 9 miles were downhill and spectacular. The colours in the rock were magical.

I got to camp and was given a pitch that is used for caravans. I broke 3 pegs trying to get them into the ground and then I gave up. I spoke to a neighbour who informed me the wind was strong again last night and might be repeated tonight. I decided to line my tent with the biggest rocks I could lift. That had to do the trick.

I went over to the bar and treated myself to a well earned litre glass of beer. I got taking to a bloke from Florida and we had a good chat about hiking in the area. As we were talking a couple walked through the door. These were the same people that were sitting behind me on the plane and also got the airport transfer bus to San Francisco city center. At the time, I jokingly told them I might bump into them along the route. Infact, we already did at Yosemite Village and again now in Death Valley. We all chatted and drank several more litres of beer.

I retired to my tent in my pissed state and decided to have a little campfire like everybody else. I searched numerous other fire pits for left over wood and got a great fire going. I sat there scoffing M&Ms admiring my handy work with the tent and feeling quite satisfied with my efforts for the day. Although, I avoided looking left as the moon outlined the 5000ft hill I have to pass in the morning! Bring it on…………