Day 23 Carlsbad, New Mexico

Stats

Daily mileage 84 Ride time 6hr 51min Avg speed 12.27 mph Total mileage 1383

It was a very early start and it felt good. I thanked my lovely host and slowly plodded into, through and out of El Paso. The bike felt good but my ankle was still a little sore.

I eventually got on the open road and passed a border control checkpoint. I topped up with water as this would be the last place I could for about 50 miles. The wind was relentless and I had to stop and have a break. I managed to take a photo of one of the hundreds of crickets/locust on the side of the road. Depsite trying my hardest, I have squashed so many and they make a really loud crunch sound when you ride over them!

As I got back on the bike, I noticed the front tyre was flat again. I was really cheesed off as I changed it only two days ago. I decided there must be a problem with the rim and upon inspection I think I found a slight lump under the rim tape. I decided I must get to a bike shop and have a professional look at it. I was informed there was bike shop in Carlsbad, some 150 miles away.

Once over a small mountain pass, the land transformed into a vast flat plain. There was no escape from the wind so I put my head down and watched the miles trickle down. I was truly in the middle of nowhere with no mobile reception. Thoroughly tired and 84 miles down, my mobile kicked into life. As I reached for my phone I heard a very distinct snap from my rear wheel. I looked down and noticed the wheel was no longer running smoothly. It had a rhythmic pulsing motion which meant one thing, a broken spoke. I got off my bike and didn’t know what to do. I have spare spokes but I needed a cassette removal tool. It was getting late and I had very little water left.

I really didn’t know what to do. I thought about texting my hosts from last night to come and pick me up but I lost reception. Besides, I really didn’t want to ask them to do that. I sat there for about 10 mins trying to decide what to do. I car happened to pull up about 100m away so I walked over to them not really knowing what I was going to say. I guess I was hoping the driver was a bike mechanic! He said he couldn’t help me so I made a decision to get on the bike and cycle 20 miles to a 2 house town called Salt Flat.

Within about 5 mins the same car stopped in front of me and asked if I wanted a lift to Carlsbad, some 100 miles away. He stated there was a bike shop there. I reluctantly accepted his offer and was annoyed with myself that I would miss this section of the road. I wanted to say I cycled all the way across but now I have missed a 100 mile section. On the other hand I could have done serious damage to the bike, wheel and tyre if I continued.

I checked into a motel on the out skirts of Carlsbad and spoke to the receptionist about bike shops in town. He stated with great conviction that the shops have closed done and there were no longer there. I went to the room feeling down and thought about my options. I will make some phone calls in the morning but if I cant find a bike shop, I will have to either hitch another ride to Roswell or cycle 80 miles to Hobbs.

I logged onto the internet and found some you tube videos of how to fix spokes and had a go. I removed the tyre, rim tape and spoke. I then got to the point where I realised I didn’t have the tool to proceed. I replaced to parts and made a hash of it. I sat on the bed thoroughly annoyed and dejected.

I had been really looking forward to the ride from El Paso to Carlsbad because I was planning on visiting the famous caverns. At sunset the thousands of bats cyclone out of the cave which is supposed to be very impressive. Now, I am 20 miles passed the caverns and if I cant get the bike fixed tomorrow I will have to miss out on them. Not good..aaaggggghhhhhhh!